Vama Veche

Before setting off on the joyous 10+ hour trek from Cluj-Napoca to Vama Veche, I was bombarded with wildly conflicting tales. Some folks painted it as a utopia of freedom and artistic flair, where you can channel your inner bohemian. Others practically begged me to avoid it at all costs, claiming it’s a dirty, overpriced party zone where you’ll be lucky to find peace between the 3 AM drum circles and endless beach raves.

It seems that no matter which way you slice it, everyone’s got a strong opinion about this random coastal village in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

Vama Veche sits on the far southern tip of the Romanian Black Sea coast, just a hop, skip, and a questionable border crossing from Bulgaria. Its name literally means “Old Customs,” which seems fitting for a place where the customs are… well, let’s just say alternative.

Back in the 1970s, this sleepy little fishing village got a glow-up when professors from University Babeș-Bolyai in Cluj-Napoca started showing up for their summer escape. Soon, Vama Veche became the ultimate hangout for bohemians, hippies, intellectuals, punks, rockers, and anyone who thought mainstream was just another word for “boring.” People would crash at fishermen’s houses or go full beach-bum mode, camping right on the sand. It was basically a DIY paradise for free thinkers, anti-consumerists, and anyone with a rebellious streak.

Though the beach camping scene has dialed down a notch, you can still pop a tent if you’re feeling nostalgic for the days when showering was optional.

During the Communist Era, especially in the 1980s when rationing and censorship hit their peak, Vama Veche was a kind of secret hideaway where freedom of thought was still alive and kicking. As repression got tighter, the village became even more of a magnet for anyone looking to escape state-sponsored boredom and embrace their inner rebel.

In 1988, while on her way to Bulgaria, Elena Ceaușescu—wife of the infamous dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu—rolled through Vama Veche and apparently wasn’t too impressed. In true dictator-wife fashion, she decided it wasn’t up to her high aesthetic standards and promptly ordered it to be bulldozed. A few buildings, including homes, a school, and even a church, fell victim to Elena’s “makeover” plans.

Thankfully, the 1989 Revolution came along just in time to save the rest of the village from her demolition dreams.

As Romania transitioned to the wild west of capitalism, developers quickly realized there was money to be made along the Black Sea coast. Vama Veche, once a haven for free spirits, suddenly looked like a prime opportunity for those hoping to cash in on its charm—or what was left of it after Elena’s wrecking ball had its way.

Ironically, concern over Bulgarian border control sightlines kept Vama Veche mostly safe from the resort-town takeover that swept the rest of the coast—for a while, at least. But word got out about its untouched charm, and soon the party crowd came running. Restaurants, terraces, and bars began popping up like beach umbrellas. Before long, Vama was the spot for Southerners and Bucharest city folk needing a weekend escape to drink, dance, and forget their work emails existed.

Fast forward 31 years after communism’s fall, and Vama Veche has evolved (or devolved, depending on who you ask). Gentrification? Yeah, it’s here—just check out the endless stream of Airbnbs, many owned by non-Romanians cashing in on the village’s once-bohemian vibe. Hostels line the streets, vendors sell everything from cheap souvenirs to “authentic” trinkets on every corner, and gift shops seem to multiply overnight. The anti-consumerism spirit? Well, let’s just say it packed up and left a long time ago.

Since this was my first trip to Vama, I don’t have any nostalgic memories of the “good old days” to compare it to, but I’ve heard plenty of grumbles. Many Romanians will tell you Vama Veche has lost its authenticity, sold out, and traded its soul for tourist dollars. The prices? Ridiculous! A beer at the local supermarket costs the same as a restaurant beer in Cluj—with tip included. And believe me, this I can confirm. Renting a beach chair on the beach in Vama Veche will set you back anywhere from 50 lei (about $11 USD) on weekends to a bargain-basement 30 lei on weekdays. But hey, at least they throw in some cushions so you don’t have to lie on bare plastic—luxury, right?

So, what’s my verdict on Vama Veche? Is it a bohemian paradise or just another overrun tourist trap? Honestly, it’s a bit of both. Since I never visited during its so-called glory days, I’m not mourning the loss of some nostalgic past. Even with the crowds, I still think it’s one of the most underrated beach spots in Europe. That said, it’s a place with a specific vibe, and it’s definitely not for everyone.

The beach scenes can get… interesting. Over the course of a week, I witnessed the full spectrum of Vama Veche culture. There was the nudist beach, where old dudes confidently yanked wedgies out with their cheeks proudly on display. I saw a guy so strung out he wandered over to our table, swiped a breakfast sausage off my plate, and then tried to pet my friendly dog—who immediately bit him (good dog!). Trash and discarded masks littered the ground, adding a nice touch of post-apocalyptic chic to the scenery.

Yet despite the chaos, the spirit of freedom, community, and carefree living still pulses through Vama Veche. Sure, maybe it’s evolved in ways the old-timers don’t love, but the heart of it is still beating—just maybe a little harder to hear over the drum circles.

There is a word in Romanian that proves just how special Vama Veche is to so many. Vamaioți – a term to describe people who are so in love with Vama Veche, that they will always come back.

Where to Stay in Vama Veche

If you’re doing Vama Veche on a budget, you’re in luck—there’s no shortage of hostels ready to welcome you (and possibly your questionable life choices). The most popular spots are Elga’s Punk Rock Hostel, Bazart Hostel, and Hostel Sea Star—where you’re just as likely to find a late-night jam session as a bed.

We opted for Pensiunea Hesta, which is dog-friendly. For a week in August, it cost us 1550 lei (about $375 USD). It was close enough to the beachfront that we could stumble there without much effort. The downside? Manele music blasting at full volume until 7 AM every single day. Whether this is an issue depends on who else is staying there and how much you value sleep—or how much you don’t need it.

The backyard at Hesta has many hammocks and common areas to make friends and drink once you get tired of spending money at the bars!

Vama Veche also has a number of upscale accommodations. Some of the highest-rated include Casa in Culori Vama Veche, Vila Sophia, and Ema.

Where to Eat in Vama Veche

The seafront is lined with restaurants as far as the eye can see. During my stay there, we tended to rotate going to only a couple of different restaurants.

Cherhana is without-a-doubt the gold standard of seafood in Vama Veche. La Canapele was good for a solid breakfast selection. 

Where to Drink in Vama Veche

As with restaurants, bars and clubs are abundant in the village. I visited during the 2020 global pandemic and the hours were restricted, however, during normal times, many of these bars and clubs are open 24 hours.

Some of my personal favorites and other popular places to go include: Stuf, Yuva Beach Bar, Acolo, Arca, Molotov, Expirat, and countless others.

How to get to Vama Veche

Besides driving, which is the most convenient, there are other ways to reach Vama. Fly to Henry Coanda International Airport (OTP) in Bucharest or to Kogalniceanu Airport (CND) near Constanta, and take a train or bus to Mangalia, and then take a Minibus (“MaxiTaxi”) south to Vama.

Other things to do in Vama Veche

Believe it or not, there are other things to do in Vama besides party.

Take a taxi over to 2 Mai, Vama’s neighbor, just 5km north. This village is a little more family friendly, so it may be a better option if traveling with children.

Walk to Bulgaria! The border is less than 1km away from Vama. Border control is present, so have your passport if you plan on crossing.

Explore an underwater shipwreck. Can you dive? Head to Marine Explorers Dive Center and see about exploring the shipwreck just 150m offshore.

If you have a few days to spare, drive a few hours north to the Ukraine border and check out the Danube Delta, one of the most wild and remote areas in all of Europe!