Romania – Mommy Travels https://www.mommytravels.net Creating memories one trip at a time. Thu, 27 Mar 2025 15:02:48 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 https://www.mommytravels.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/cropped-Mommy-Travels-favicon-2-32x32.jpg Romania – Mommy Travels https://www.mommytravels.net 32 32 Most Impressive Fortresses and Castles in Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/most-impressive-fortresses-and-castles-in-romania/ https://www.mommytravels.net/most-impressive-fortresses-and-castles-in-romania/#respond Sat, 22 Mar 2025 10:03:20 +0000 https://www.mommytravels.net/?p=42367 Romania, tucked away in Eastern Europe, has a fascinating history that is adorned with numerous, well-preserved medieval castles and fortresses. These...

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Romania, tucked away in Eastern Europe, has a fascinating history that is adorned with numerous, well-preserved medieval castles and fortresses. These architectural wonders stand as a testament to the country’s rich history and give tourists the chance to travel back in time and immerse themselves in tales of political intrigue, love, and battles.

If you’re a history and architecture buff and you’re planning to visit Romania, you might be overwhelmed with all the choices you have. So I hope this article will help you decide easier, and I’ll give you a list of the most important and imposing castles, citadels, and fortresses that you can find around the country.

Bran Castle: The Enigmatic Home of Draculabran castle

We cannot delve into the topic of Romanian castles without discussing Bran Castle, also known as Dracula’s Castle. Originally built as a fortress in the 14th century, Bran Castle’s story took an intriguing turn in the 19th century when Queen Maria converted it into her opulent place of residence. 

Close to the popular tourist city of Brasov, the design of the castle harmoniously combines original medieval components with elegant features, creating a unique ambiance that echoes throughout its halls.

Of course, Bran Castle’s connection with Bram Stoker’s Dracula novel adds to its appeal. Dracula’s inspiration, Vlad the Impaler, increases the suspense with the tales of cruelty and punishment that are associated with him. 

Today, the castle is Romania’s most popular tourist destination and a day trip to visit it is one of the most popular things to do in Brasov. 

Peleș Castle: A Royal Haven of Opulencepeles castle

Beyond Bran Castle, Romania’s royal legacy extends to Peleș Castle, a 19th-century masterpiece built to be the royal family’s summer residence. 

The luxurious design of the castle, embellished with Murano crystal chandeliers, German stained-glass windows, and Cordoba leather-covered walls, effortlessly mixes diverse architectural styles. 

As a fun fact, Peleș Castle is noteworthy for being Europe’s first castle with installed electricity, a remarkable feat for its time. 

The interior of Peleș Castle is a treasure trove of opulent decorations, including ceiling paintings and frescoes. Visitors can explore its splendor through beautifully planned chambers and corridors, while the stunning mountain resort of Sinaia provides a picturesque backdrop.

Cantacuzino Castle: A Glimpse into Aristocratic Luxury

Cantacuzino Castle, located in Bușteni, reveals the aristocratic grandeur of the Cantacuzino family, whose wealth peaked in the early 1900s. This architectural marvel, made famous by its appearance in the popular Netflix series Wednesday, invites tourists to discover its beauty. The extravagant lifestyle of a bygone era is reflected in lavish artwork such as Roman mosaics and mural paintings.

As you go through the castle’s interior, you’ll experience the Romanian aristocracy, thanks to Italian-burnished pottery and exquisite workmanship. The terrace of the castle offers beautiful views of the Carpathian Mountains, making it an idyllic setting for dinner at its inviting restaurant.

Deva Fortress: A Citadel Perched in Time

The Deva Fortress, which dates back to the 13th century, embodies Romania’s historical bravery and resilience. Its high location provides panoramic views of the surrounding area and once served as a key vantage point for protection and defense.

The fortress can be reached via a challenging climb of steep stairs or a more pleasant cable car ride. The Deva Fortress displays architectural ingenuity while also providing glimpses into the region’s turbulent past. The centuries-old stories resound as you explore its nooks and crannies, providing a sense of connection to Romania’s enduring spirit.

 

 

Corvin Castle: A Tapestry of Legends and Grandeur

Corvin Castle (also known as Hunyadi Castle), is considered one of Romania’s Seven Wonders, and is a testament to medieval architecture and Gothic beauty. Its impressive walls, double moat, and multiple towers recall memories of warfare and imprisonment, similar to those described in legends and movies. 

The Renaissance-Gothic style of the castle has earned it the title as one of the most impressive castles in Eastern Europe.

Corvin Castle, home to John Hunyade, a medieval ruler of Transylvania, has painted roofs, intricate windows, and stone-carved balconies. Exploring the majestic rooms and towers of Corvin Castle provides an immersive experience that transports visitors to a realm of medieval intrigue and power.

Sighișoara Citadel: Where Time Stands Stillsighisoara citadel

Sighişoara Citadel is one of Europe’s last inhabited medieval citadels. Here you’ll find colorful houses, cobbled roads, and medieval architecture, ready to be explored for hours on end by its visitors. Its well-preserved beauty has won the citadel a place on UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites.

The house of Vlad the Impaler’s birth, now a museum and restaurant, is among the citadel’s historic gems. The fortified walls, defense towers, and the renowned Clock Tower all add to the appealing atmosphere of this destination.

Alba-Iulia Citadel, the Crown Jewel of TransylvaniaAlba Iulia Citadel

The Alba-Iulia Citadel is located in the heart of Transylvania. This citadel, known as the “Crown Jewel of Transylvania,” is a beautiful blend of architectural grandeur and historical importance.

Alba-Iulia has deep roots in the Roman Empire when it was known as Apulum. The history of the citadel is a complex tapestry woven with threads of Roman, medieval, and modern influences. Its current star-shaped layout was designed by military engineer Vauban and is a marvel of strategic design.

The Alba-Iulia Citadel is a treasure trove of remarkable architecture. The imposing Roman Catholic Cathedral has intricate details and serves as a monument of faith and craftsmanship. The Union Hall has great significance for Romanians because this is where the Great Union was declared in 1918, paving the way for the country we know today.

Rasnov Citadel, Guardian of the CarpathiansRasnov Citadel 6

Rasnov Citadel is sitting high on a rocky hill overlooking the charming village of Rasnov. Its origins can be traced back to the early 13th century when fortifications were essential for survival against invaders.

The site of the citadel affords panoramic views of the surrounding Carpathian Mountains, making it a perfect defensive position. Rasnov Citadel, built by Teutonic Knights and later expanded by locals, became a refuge for villagers during times of war. Its walls, bastions, and watchtowers are not only still visible today, but also very well-preserved.

Poenari Fortress, the Haunting Beauty

With its imposing presence and haunting history, Poenari Fortress deserves its spot on its list. This fortress, which is also popularly associated with the infamous Vlad the Impaler, exudes a mysterious aura that enchants anyone who goes to its heights.

The history of the fortress is as turbulent as the winds that blow through its towers. Built by Wallachian rulers in the 13th century, it was subsequently restored and expanded by Vlad the Impaler himself. The fortress’s concealed position, as well as the 1,480-stair climb to reach its ruins, only contribute to its attractiveness in the eyes of its visitors.

Conclusion

Romania’s citadels, castles, and fortresses stand as a permanent reminder for both the good and the bad times in the nation’s history. These historical gems offer an unforgettable journey through time, from the enigmatic passageways of Bran Castle to the magnificent rooms of Peles Castle, and from the strategic walls of Alba-Iulia Citadel to the haunting allure of Poenari Fortress. 

Each destination has its own impressive architecture and fascinating stories, ready to be discovered by curious travelers. I hope this article has turned you into one!

Read Next:

Train from Budapest, Hungary to Sibiu, Romania

Ultimate Guide to Cluj-Napoca, Romania

 

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When I want to book a full-on multi-day tour I use TourRadar. They’ve got fantastic weekly deals. If going somewhere in Mexico or the Caribbean, I use Apple Vacations.

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Vama Veche https://www.mommytravels.net/vama-veche/ https://www.mommytravels.net/vama-veche/#comments Sun, 22 Sep 2024 17:08:24 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=4415 Before setting off on the joyous 10+ hour trek from Cluj-Napoca to Vama Veche, I was bombarded with wildly conflicting tales....

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Before setting off on the joyous 10+ hour trek from Cluj-Napoca to Vama Veche, I was bombarded with wildly conflicting tales. Some folks painted it as a utopia of freedom and artistic flair, where you can channel your inner bohemian. Others practically begged me to avoid it at all costs, claiming it’s a dirty, overpriced party zone where you’ll be lucky to find peace between the 3 AM drum circles and endless beach raves.

It seems that no matter which way you slice it, everyone’s got a strong opinion about this random coastal village in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

Jade, Szilard, and Andre on the beach in Vama Veche, Romania

Vama Veche sits on the far southern tip of the Romanian Black Sea coast, just a hop, skip, and a questionable border crossing from Bulgaria. Its name literally means “Old Customs,” which seems fitting for a place where the customs are… well, let’s just say alternative.

Back in the 1970s, this sleepy little fishing village got a glow-up when professors from University Babeș-Bolyai in Cluj-Napoca started showing up for their summer escape. Soon, Vama Veche became the ultimate hangout for bohemians, hippies, intellectuals, punks, rockers, and anyone who thought mainstream was just another word for “boring.” People would crash at fishermen’s houses or go full beach-bum mode, camping right on the sand. It was basically a DIY paradise for free thinkers, anti-consumerists, and anyone with a rebellious streak.

Though the beach camping scene has dialed down a notch, you can still pop a tent if you’re feeling nostalgic for the days when showering was optional.

During the Communist Era, especially in the 1980s when rationing and censorship hit their peak, Vama Veche was a kind of secret hideaway where freedom of thought was still alive and kicking. As repression got tighter, the village became even more of a magnet for anyone looking to escape state-sponsored boredom and embrace their inner rebel.

Building in Vama Veche with 'Peace' painted on the side

In 1988, while on her way to Bulgaria, Elena Ceaușescu—wife of the infamous dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu—rolled through Vama Veche and apparently wasn’t too impressed. In true dictator-wife fashion, she decided it wasn’t up to her high aesthetic standards and promptly ordered it to be bulldozed. A few buildings, including homes, a school, and even a church, fell victim to Elena’s “makeover” plans.

Thankfully, the 1989 Revolution came along just in time to save the rest of the village from her demolition dreams.

As Romania transitioned to the wild west of capitalism, developers quickly realized there was money to be made along the Black Sea coast. Vama Veche, once a haven for free spirits, suddenly looked like a prime opportunity for those hoping to cash in on its charm—or what was left of it after Elena’s wrecking ball had its way.

Beach chairs in Vama Veche, Romania

Ironically, concern over Bulgarian border control sightlines kept Vama Veche mostly safe from the resort-town takeover that swept the rest of the coast—for a while, at least. But word got out about its untouched charm, and soon the party crowd came running. Restaurants, terraces, and bars began popping up like beach umbrellas. Before long, Vama was the spot for Southerners and Bucharest city folk needing a weekend escape to drink, dance, and forget their work emails existed.

Fast forward 31 years after communism’s fall, and Vama Veche has evolved (or devolved, depending on who you ask). Gentrification? Yeah, it’s here—just check out the endless stream of Airbnbs, many owned by non-Romanians cashing in on the village’s once-bohemian vibe. Hostels line the streets, vendors sell everything from cheap souvenirs to “authentic” trinkets on every corner, and gift shops seem to multiply overnight. The anti-consumerism spirit? Well, let’s just say it packed up and left a long time ago.Beach chairs and natural fiber umbrellas at Vama Veche, Romania.

Since this was my first trip to Vama, I don’t have any nostalgic memories of the “good old days” to compare it to, but I’ve heard plenty of grumbles. Many Romanians will tell you Vama Veche has lost its authenticity, sold out, and traded its soul for tourist dollars. The prices? Ridiculous! A beer at the local supermarket costs the same as a restaurant beer in Cluj—with tip included. And believe me, this I can confirm. Renting a beach chair on the beach in Vama Veche will set you back anywhere from 50 lei (about $11 USD) on weekends to a bargain-basement 30 lei on weekdays. But hey, at least they throw in some cushions so you don’t have to lie on bare plastic—luxury, right?

Woman using dog as pillow on beach chair in Vama Veche.

So, what’s my verdict on Vama Veche? Is it a bohemian paradise or just another overrun tourist trap? Honestly, it’s a bit of both. Since I never visited during its so-called glory days, I’m not mourning the loss of some nostalgic past. Even with the crowds, I still think it’s one of the most underrated beach spots in Europe. That said, it’s a place with a specific vibe, and it’s definitely not for everyone.

The beach scenes can get… interesting. Over the course of a week, I witnessed the full spectrum of Vama Veche culture. There was the nudist beach, where old dudes confidently yanked wedgies out with their cheeks proudly on display. I saw a guy so strung out he wandered over to our table, swiped a breakfast sausage off my plate, and then tried to pet my friendly dog—who immediately bit him (good dog!). Trash and discarded masks littered the ground, adding a nice touch of post-apocalyptic chic to the scenery.

Yet despite the chaos, the spirit of freedom, community, and carefree living still pulses through Vama Veche. Sure, maybe it’s evolved in ways the old-timers don’t love, but the heart of it is still beating—just maybe a little harder to hear over the drum circles.

Woman on a swing on the beach in Vama Veche, Romania with the word 'YOLO' above her on the swing.

There is a word in Romanian that proves just how special Vama Veche is to so many. Vamaioți – a term to describe people who are so in love with Vama Veche, that they will always come back.

Where to Stay in Vama Veche

If you’re doing Vama Veche on a budget, you’re in luck—there’s no shortage of hostels ready to welcome you (and possibly your questionable life choices). The most popular spots are Elga’s Punk Rock Hostel, Bazart Hostel, and Hostel Sea Star—where you’re just as likely to find a late-night jam session as a bed.

We opted for Pensiunea Hesta, which is dog-friendly. For a week in August, it cost us 1550 lei (about $375 USD). It was close enough to the beachfront that we could stumble there without much effort. The downside? Manele music blasting at full volume until 7 AM every single day. Whether this is an issue depends on who else is staying there and how much you value sleep—or how much you don’t need it.

Man sitting on hammock at hostel in Vama Veche

The backyard at Hesta has many hammocks and common areas to make friends and drink once you get tired of spending money at the bars!

Vama Veche also has a number of upscale accommodations. Some of the highest-rated include Casa in Culori Vama Veche, Vila Sophia, and Ema.

Where to Eat in Vama Veche

Mixed-Grill-Platter-Vama
Mixed-Grill-Platter-Vama

The seafront is lined with restaurants as far as the eye can see. During my stay there, we tended to rotate going to only a couple of different restaurants.

Cherhana is without-a-doubt the gold standard of seafood in Vama Veche. La Canapele was good for a solid breakfast selection. 

Where to Drink in Vama Veche

As with restaurants, bars and clubs are abundant in the village. I visited during the 2020 global pandemic and the hours were restricted, however, during normal times, many of these bars and clubs are open 24 hours.117307852 10157165542991946 5568108636160573529 n 1

Some of my personal favorites and other popular places to go include: Stuf, Yuva Beach Bar, Acolo, Arca, Molotov, Expirat, and countless others.

How to get to Vama Veche

Besides driving, which is the most convenient, there are other ways to reach Vama. Fly to Henry Coanda International Airport (OTP) in Bucharest or to Kogalniceanu Airport (CND) near Constanta, and take a train or bus to Mangalia, and then take a Minibus (“MaxiTaxi”) south to Vama.

Other things to do in Vama Veche

Believe it or not, there are other things to do in Vama besides party.

Take a taxi over to 2 Mai, Vama’s neighbor, just 5km north. This village is a little more family friendly, so it may be a better option if traveling with children.

Empty tables next to the black sea with big white canopies shading the tables from the sun

Walk to Bulgaria! The border is less than 1km away from Vama. Border control is present, so have your passport if you plan on crossing.

Explore an underwater shipwreck. Can you dive? Head to Marine Explorers Dive Center and see about exploring the shipwreck just 150m offshore.

If you have a few days to spare, drive a few hours north to the Ukraine border and check out the Danube Delta, one of the most wild and remote areas in all of Europe!

Vama Veche, Romania

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Top 10 Things to do in Oradea, Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/things-to-do-in-oradea/ https://www.mommytravels.net/things-to-do-in-oradea/#respond Tue, 09 Apr 2024 13:03:28 +0000 https://www.mommytravels.net/?p=46537 Oradea is one of the most beautiful hidden gems in Romania and Eastern Europe. It’s a small city in the North-West...

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Oradea is one of the most beautiful hidden gems in Romania and Eastern Europe. It’s a small city in the North-West of Romania with a population of about 200,000 people, located very close to the Hungarian border. 

Oradea is the Art Nouveau capital of Romania. The city hall has recently renovated all Art Nouveau buildings and the city looks incredibly beautiful and colorful. Most people think of cities in Western Europe like Madrid or Paris when it comes to stunning architecture. But there are so many places in Eastern Europe that rival them! Oradea is one of them.

Oradea is starting to get discovered internationally and, thus, there are more tourists visiting from all over the world every year. It’s a great destination for a city break! Oradea won 6th place in the 2022 competition of Best European Destinations, surpassing cities like London, Rome and Vienna. Starting summer 2024 there will be direct flights to Oradea from London and Warsaw, besides Bucharest. This will make visiting Oradea even easier and I’m so happy to see how this city is developing.

Why do I love Oradea so much? That’s because I was born and raised in Oradea. Since I know the city so well I wanted to share with you the top 10 things to do in Oradea. If you like exploring off the beaten path destinations I promise you will fall in love with Oradea.

1. Republicii Avenuerepublicii avenue in oradea

Republicii Avenue, or Calea Republicii in Romanian, is Oradea’s main avenue. It is a pedestrian avenue and it has lots of colorful Art Nouveau buildings, shops, and cafes. It’s a popular spot for taking a stroll. And it’s also where both locals and tourists like to meet up to have coffee.

If you didn’t know, Romania has a strong coffee culture. It’s similar to the coffee culture of other countries in Europe, so you’ll mostly find espresso-based drinks. There are cafes along the entire length of Republicii Avenue. One would think that there’s too many of them, but all of them have customers and are thriving, so that shows how much we love our coffee.

2. Unirii SquareUnirii Square in Oradea

Union Square, or Piața Unirii in Romanian, is Oradea’s main square. New Year’s Eve celebrations, the Christmas Market, concerts, and other celebrations are all hosted here. It has a beautiful collection of Art Nouveau buildings, churches, the city hall, and a few more cafes (I told you we love our coffee!). There are two unique buildings in Unirii Square I’ll tell you more about in the next sections: The Black Eagle Palace and The Moon Church.

3. Black Eagle PalaceBlack Eagle Palace in Oradea

The Black Eagle Palace is one of the most spectacular secession-style buildings in Romania. It is located in Unirii Square and its history starts in 1714 when it used to be a small, one-story inn called the Eagle Inn.

It was rebuilt in 1807 and another floor was added. In 1835 it became one of the most important hotels in Oradea, the Eagle Hotel.

In 1903 the city hall started the reconstruction of the Eagle Hotel which was completed in 1908. During the reconstruction two buildings on two intersecting streets were connected by a passageway with stained glass. This feature was inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The stained glass in the middle of the passageway has a black eagle on it, a symbol of the name and history of this important building in Oradea.

Both buildings united by the passageway were expanded to 4 floors, and 35 shops and cafes were opened in the gallery. The complex was also home to a hotel, two cinemas, ballrooms, a casino, and a bank.

The Black Eagle was recently restored, and the beautiful architecture looks as impressive as it did back in the day. Nowadays the passageway has multiple cafes and bars and is open 24/7 to the public.

4. Moon churchMoon Church in Oradea

The Moon Church is a Romanian-Orthodox church built between 1784-1790. It got this name because of a unique mechanism in Europe, located on the church tower.

The mechanism sets in motion a sphere with a diameter of 1 meter, in the shape of the moon, painted half in black, half in gold. This sphere moves according to the rotational movement of the Moon around the Earth and shows all the moon phases. Make sure to look up when you visit so you can spot the moon phase on the church.

5. Mushroom Hillview of oradea from ciuperca hill

Mushroom Hill, or Dealul Ciuperca in Romanian, is a public garden and panoramic viewpoint of Oradea. To get to the viewpoint you can hike or you can drive, but I highly recommend the hike. It’s an easy trail and it should only take you about 15 minutes to get to the top. 

There are benches along the trail so you can rest and take in the view if you get tired. There are also multiple other viewpoints along the trail so you can take pictures or just enjoy the view. Once you get to the top of the hill there is a restaurant and cafe so you can get a drink or grab a bite.

6. Oradea Fortressoradea fortress

The Fortress is the first urban settlement in Oradea and it has a rich history. It was first built at the end of the 11th century, and it has a star shape. In 1619, the Transylvanian prince Gabriel Bethlen decided to build a palace within the fortress, parallel to its walls. The construction was completed in 1650 in a late Renaissance style.

The trench of the fortress used to be filled with a mix of thermal water from the Peța River and cold water from the Crișul Repede river. This combination prevented the water from freezing, which could have led to the Fortress being conquered during winter.

The fortress was restored in 2015 and nowadays it houses museums, restaurants, and craftsman’s workshops. It’s also a place where the city hosts fairs and medieval reenactments.

7. City hall towerLandscape of Oradea from the city hall tower

The city hall, located in Unirii Square, was built between 1902-1903. The building has a tower that’s about 50 meters tall and it is open to the public. There are no elevators, so you’ll have to climb stairs to reach the top.

There are 4 levels during the climb to the top. The first level has the city hall clock mechanism. This clock plays the song “The March of Avram Iancu” every hour on the hour. It’s one of my favorite things about Oradea. You always know when the hour changes if you’re in the city center because of this song.

The other 3 levels offer panoramic viewpoints so you can see the city from different heights. If you’re not afraid of heights and are able to climb stairs, this is a great activity.

A ticket costs 10 Lei, which is the equivalent of about 2 euros. The tower is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm.

8. Baroque complex

The Baroque Complex consists of three buildings: the Baroque Palace, the Roman Catholic Basilica, and Sirul Canonicilor.

The Baroque PalaceBaroque Palace in Oradea

The Baroque Palace was built between 1762-1777 and is one of the most grandiose examples of Baroque architecture in Romania. It has 100 rooms and 365 windows, one for each day of the year.

It was designed by Viennese architect Franz Anton Hillebrandt as a sister palace to Belvedere in Vienna.

There is an English-style landscaped garden in front of the palace, and a baroque style garden behind the Western facade of the palace. The building and gardens were recently restored.

The palace used to house the Țării Crișurilor Museum from 1971 until 2016, when it was restituted to the Roman Catholic Diocese.

The Roman Catholic BasilicaRoman Catholic Basilica in Oradea

The cathedral was built between 1752 and 1780 and it is one of the largest Baroque-style churches in Romania. The church is still functional today and it is open to the public. Entrance is free.

Sirul Canonicilorsirul canonicilor in oradea

Sirul Canonicilor is an architectural complex consisting of 57 arches that link 10 consecutive buildings. It was built in several stages over 100 years, between 1750-1875. It is the perfect place to take some amazing photos!

9. Țării Crișurilor Museumtarii crisurilor museum in oradea

The Țării Crișurilor Museum is the largest museum in Oradea and it has over 450,000 articles on display. It is divided into five sections: history, archeology, art, science, ethnography.

It was opened in 1971 and until 2006 it was located in the Baroque Palace. In 2006 it moved to a new building.

A ticket costs 15 Lei, which is the equivalent of 3 euros. The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday from 10 am – 6 pm between April 1 – October 31, and 9 am – 5 pm from November 1 – March 31.

10. Darvas-La Roche HouseDarvas-La Roche House in Oradea

Darvas-La Roche House is the first Art Nouveau Museum in Romania. The house was built between 1909-1912 in the Art Nouveau Secession style.

It was recently restored by the city hall and it opened its doors to the public in 2020. The house is decorated with stained glass windows, neo-rococo style furniture, and a mirror wall made of Venetian crystal.

Darvas-La Roche house also organizes different events for the public such as serving high tea in the house’s rooms, or learning about nature from an exhibit with flowers and birds.

A ticket costs 15 Lei, which is the equivalent of 3 euros. It is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm.

Guest Author: Ioana was born and raised in Romania and has been living in NYC for over 13 years. She started to travel solo once she turned 30, visited 18 countries so far, and loves to share her travel adventures and tips on her blog and Instagram

Read Next:

Most Impressive Fortresses and Castles in Romania

26 Things to do in Sibiu, Romania

Top 10 Things to do in Oradea, Romania

Get Travel Insurance

Unfortunately, there are a lot of things that can go wrong on any trip. Be prepared for the worst with travel insurance. We use Travelex or Safety Wing (often cheaper).

Book Flights

I use Skyscanner to find flights. I use it so much, I wrote an entire guide to finding cheap flights with Skyscanner! Another option for finding deals is FlightHub.

Book a Place to Stay

I recommend using Expedia.com or Hotels.com for most hotel bookings. I prefer to book directly with Marriott when I stay there because of their excellent military discount.

If you prefer staying in a vacation rental instead, I recommend VRBO. If you are looking for a hostel, I use HostelWorld.

Choose Activities and Tours

To find great activities in any area I use Viator. If we are visiting a city with lots of popular attractions I always check CityPass, PogoPass, and GoCard to see if they have discount cards available. Groupon also tends to have a lot of local travel deals.

When I want to book a full-on multi-day tour I use TourRadar. They’ve got fantastic weekly deals. If going somewhere in Mexico or the Caribbean, I use Apple Vacations.

Rent a Car or Get a Lyft

More often than not, Lyft is cheaper than Uber. Use my Lyft link for an $18 credit! For a car rental in any country, I recommend Hertz or Discover Cars.

Save Money on Gas

Upside a free app gets you cash back on gas! Use promo code RV2Q2 to get an extra 15¢/gal bonus on your first purchase.

Get a Visa

I use iVisa to get all of my Visas.

Travel Printables

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How to Spend a Relaxing Weekend at the Danube Delta https://www.mommytravels.net/weekend-at-the-danube-delta/ https://www.mommytravels.net/weekend-at-the-danube-delta/#comments Mon, 21 Jun 2021 06:37:25 +0000 https://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=26853 Romania is a must-see destination, and what better way to unwind while you’re there than by visiting the Danube Delta? Boasting...

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Romania is a must-see destination, and what better way to unwind while you’re there than by visiting the Danube Delta? Boasting some of Europe’s most pristine nature reserves, it presents an unforgettable opportunity for outdoor adventurers. From spotting rare bird species to angling for your supper (with permit!), this UNESCO World Heritage Site guarantees relaxation like no other – because being at one with mother nature makes any weekend something truly special!

Where is the Danube Delta?

Stormy skies over the Danube river in Danube Delta, Romania

The majority of the Danube Delta is in Romania, in Tulcea County. This is in the northern portion of Romania’s Black Sea coast. A small portion of the Delta (primarily the Chilia branch of the river) flows north into Ukraine (Odessa Oblast). The rough surface area is 4,152 km2, of which 3,446 km2 are in Romania.Trees reflected in the water of the Danube River, Danube Delta, Romania

How Do I Get to the Danube Delta?

Depending on where you are coming from, you may wish to spend more than a weekend at the Danube Delta. For us, coming from within Romania, a weekend was perfect. The area is fairly remote, so take travel time into account when planning your stay.Lilypads and reeds on the Danube River, Delta Dunarii, Romania

Tulcea is the closest large city to the Delta, and is easily accessed from various places within Romania by bus or train. The closest airport to the Danube Delta is Constanța (CND).


About the Danube Delta

The Danube Delta, most of which in Romania, is a vast area spanning 5,700 square kilometers of rivers, canals, marshes, lakes, and tiny islands where the Danube River meets the Black Sea.  The Danube River, which originates in Germany over 2,800 kilometers away, is the second longest river in Europe and the most international river in the world, traversing nine European countries.Pelican colony at the Danube Delta, Romania

The area boasts an incredible amount of biodiversity – in fact, it holds the title as ‘Third Greatest Biodiversity Count in the World’.  It loses out to the better-known Great Barrier Reef and Galapagos Islands.  There are almost 6,000 species of wild plant and animal life!

Raised hut above the water at the Danube Delta, RomaniaPart of what makes this area so special is the fact that it isn’t overrun with tourists.  Particularly outside of Europe, not many people even know about the Danube Delta’s existence.  Given its remote location in the underbelly of Eastern Europe, it can be a challenge to reach, which probably contributes to its relative anonymity.Small, green motorboat with 3 passengers traveling away from the camera

As it approaches its final destination at the Black Sea, the Danube splits into three separate branches:  Chilia, Sulina, and the Sfântu Gheorghe branch.  The Chilia branch is the youngest and much of it runs through Ukraine to the north.  The Sulina branch is the middle branch of the Danube with many hidden canals interconnecting the three.  The Sfântu Gheorghe branch is the southernmost, most visited branch.  Along all three are tiny villages, most of which are only accessible by boat from Tulcea. 

In 1991, the Danube Delta was inscribed with the prestigious title of UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Where to Stay the Weekend at the Danube Delta

Casa Lac de Verde

I have only stayed in one place during my time at the Danube Delta, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Honestly, when Szilard and I return, I probably won’t even bother looking for another place to stay – we were very pleased with our choice. I stumbled upon this gem on Airbnb, Casa Lac de Verde, and am so thrilled to share our experience of a weekend at the Danube Delta with you.Hand holding a rose for a photo opp

After spending a stressful few days on the underwhelming seaside town of Eforie Sud, I tried to not let my expectations for the Delta get the best of me. I was very pleasantly surprised with what awaited us in the village of Baltenii de Sus.

Tip: Skip Eforie Sud – go to Vama Veche instead!Baltenii de Sus, village in Danube Delta, Romania with farm houses for sale

Casa Lac de Verde is a small, stunning farm with sprawling gardens perched upon a hilltop overlooking the Danube. As soon as we pulled in the driveway, I knew that this experience would be vastly different than the one we’d just had in Eforie Sud.

I arranged our reservation via Airbnb with Octavian, though the property is his parents and he was not present. Despite the language barrier, the family’s hospitality and warmth were palpable. We were traveling with our two dogs, accustomed to city life. They absolutely adored the chance to run around the farm without a leash, especially when compared to being in our apartment in Cluj.

Eating in the Danube Delta

Many of the villages at the Danube Delta have maybe one restaurant, so finding a place with meals included is a huge advantage. At Casa Lac de Verde, we enjoyed home-cooked meals for daily breakfast and dinner. Lunch was also available upon request. Alongside the multi-course meals, we were offered homemade wine and țuică, as well as my personal favorite Romanian spirit, vișinată.

One thing I will mention about the food in the area – be sure to pack your own snacks and sandwiches if you don’t like fish!

Boat Excursions & Day Trips

Through Casa Lac de Verde, we were also able to go out on a day-long excursion to explore the area. We only did this one day, but the family runs frequent trips around the river. They were happy to accommodate special requests (within reason, of course).

delta reflection 1

I had hoped to see as much of the Delta as possible, including the three branches of the river. Baltenii de Sus is situated on the Sfântul Gheorghe branch, but I expressed to Octavian interest in also seeing the Sulina branch, which the family happily arranged. I didn’t want to overreach, so I didn’t mention the Chilia branch. But, this could possibly be arranged as well given how well-connected the different branches are to one another.

Also arranged for us was a lunch stop at a local restaurant, a safari tour to go off-roading for a bit, and passes to enter the protected area on safari.

Costs

The lodging itself at Casa Lac de Verde for three nights was approximately $40 USD per night in early June. Rates may change depending on the season. The total for the stay came to $145 USD with Airbnb fees included.

Breakfast was 20 lei per day and dinner was 50 lei per day, both per person. Breakfast for two (three times) came to 120 lei and dinner for two (three times) came to 300 lei, totaling 420 lei total for both of us, or just about $100 USD total for food.

The boat excursion was 150 lei per person, the Safari 30 lei per person, lunch at the restaurant 50 lei per person. The total came to 460 lei, or about $110 USD total for excursions.

So, essentially everything came to $355 USD for two people (and two dogs – who also came on the boat trip and safari!). What a steal!

Blue covered boat on an excursion at the Danube Delta, Romania


Insider tips for a weekend at the Danube Delta

What to bring…

You’ll want to bring plenty of bug-spray, as the mosquitoes in the area are merciless and will stop at nothing. I bathed in the stuff every day and only came out with a few bites around my ankles.

Also make sure you bring sunscreen and layers, particularly if you are spending a lot of time on the water. Being on the boat can get quite chilly, even in the throes of summer.

A poncho is definitely a good idea, as are clothes or shoes you don’t care about getting muddy. A weekend at the Danube Delta is anything but a clean and dry experience (in the best way possible!).

Like I mentioned above, bring some sandwiches or snacks in case you don’t eat fish, or you might go hungry!

For birders, or anyone interested in some leisurely bird-watching, a set of binoculars is a must!

If you have work to do during your stay, check out these best vegan backpacks & best laptops for travel.

If you’re a Photographer…

Take your waterproof camera bag, and a telephoto lens for wildlife shots while out on the water.

If you happen to (somehow) forget your camera bag, as I did, take a couple of trash bags with you in case you need to suddenly protect your equipment from the elements.

If you’re coming by car…

Be forewarned that many of the cazare or hotels along the Danube Delta are only accessible by boat from Tulcea. We definitely wanted to have our car with us, as we had a lot of things for the dogs and too much to take with us. We’d just spent the week prior at the seaside, so didn’t pack for just a weekend. Casa Lac de Verde is accessible by car, with parking right at the house.

FYI, I am not partnered or affiliated with Casa Lac de Verde in any way – it was just a wonderful experience!

Rose bushes and gardens overlooking the Danube River at Casa Lac de Verde, Romania

Map

I’ve marked some of the nice villages to visit in the area, the different branches of the Danube Delta, the location of Baltenii de Sus and Casa Lac de Verde, as well as where to shop for snacks if you do stay there.



Pinterest graphic - guide to visiting the Danube Delta, with an image of pelicans taking off from the water.

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Train from Budapest, Hungary to Sibiu, Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/train-budapest-to-sibiu/ https://www.mommytravels.net/train-budapest-to-sibiu/#respond Thu, 03 Dec 2020 12:32:03 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=4997 If flying isn’t your thing, or, like me, you’re traveling Europe with a dog, trains are an excellent option! Not only...

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If flying isn’t your thing, or, like me, you’re traveling Europe with a dog, trains are an excellent option! Not only do trains cut down on your carbon footprint while traveling, but there’s something romantic about a long train ride across countries. Sometimes, however, train travel across country borders can be nerve-wracking if you’re unsure of what to expect. So, here’s everything you need to know about taking the train from Budapest to Sibiu, one of the most epic train rides in Europe!

In January 2020, I had to make my way from Italy to Romania without flying. Andre’s first flight was from Boston to Rome and he didn’t love it, despite him being in the cabin with me. I decided my best option was to take the overnight train from Rome to Vienna, train to Budapest for a few days, and then take the train to Sibiu.

in a rush? pin for later!

Piata Mare in Sibiu: Train from Budapest to Sibiu

Logistics

There are two trains running from Budapest to Sibiu, one during the day and one overnight train. Both take just under 11 hours. I opted to take the day train because I wouldn’t be able to check-in to my Airbnb in Sibiu until many hours after arriving in Sibiu. I didn’t want to deal with lugging all of my stuff (and my dog) around an unknown city all day. The night train departs in the evening around 19:00, so I would also have to spend a few hours in Budapest after check-out. The night train is scheduled to run from 19:10-07:01 (next day).

Exterior and interior of my Budapest VRBO

After spending a few short days in Budapest and cramming in some activities, I felt like a day of relaxation spent reading on a train would be welcomed. The day train is scheduled for 09:10-20:52. Mine didn’t arrive in Sibiu until almost midnight, which was entirely my fault – more on that later.

Check-in and check-out are things that you’ll have to factor in when deciding which train you want to take.

Purchasing Tickets

One VERY important thing worth noting is that international train tickets departing from Hungary cannot be printed at home. They must be collected from a ticketing agency in Hungary. Your best bet is to purchase your ticket straight from the Keleti Railway Station. This will save you from any confusion or losing money when taking the train from Budapest to Sibiu.

keleti

Thankfully I’d done enough research prior to purchasing my ticket and bought it the night before departure from Keleti. The ticket for the day train cost me 19 euro.

The overnight train will run between 29 euro (2nd class, no bed) and 119 euro (single sleeper compartment). Couchettes are available for 60 euro. Purchasing this option consists of a bed in a compartment of 6 bunks. Meaning, you’d be potentially staying with strangers depending on how many are in your group.

Close-up of actual ticket for the train from Budapest to Sibiu
Be sure to check your Kocsi (Coach/Wagon) – I almost sat in the part that detaches at the border!

As you can see, the day train is much less expensive if you’re watching your budget.

I was told that I’d pay for Andre on board the train, but, similar to my overnight train from Rome to Vienna, I was never charged. Andre has proved to be a very cheap travel buddy!

The Journey

My first faux pas was incorrectly reading my ticket and sitting in the wrong train. This is SUPER important because at the border between Hungary and Romania, part of the train detaches! A kind Hungarian attendant helped me find my correct seat. I had so many bags, she actually took my dog for me! Be sure you are in the correct coach!

Interior of the train from Budapest to Sibiu
Nice and empty!

The journey isn’t necessarily what I would call scenic. It was early March in Central Europe. We passed through a lot of barren farmland in the Hungarian Great Plains region. It was peaceful and quiet, however. I spent my time reading a book on Romanian history to acquaint myself with my next destination.

Interior of the train from Budapest to Sibiu showing a table and 4 seats.
View from across my seat (same space for Andre, myself, and our bags)

A few hours later I realized my second mistake. In my frantic rush to collect all of my belongings and make my train, I’d forgotten to pack any water or snacks. For eleven hours. There was a snack cart somewhere but it detaches after crossing the border. Not to mention, I had a dog and multiple suitcases and wasn’t comfortable leaving them unattended.

Crossing the Border

Here’s where things got really interesting. Since Romania is not a Schengen state, there were border police. Leaving Hungary I had no problem. We stopped in Lőkösháza for border control, my passport was stamped. The Hungarian portion of the train detached and we continued to Romania.

Border control agent getting on the train at the Hungarian-Romanian border
Hungarian border patrol
Lokoshaza stamp in passport (Hungary)
Stamped!

Upon entering Curtici, the Romanian border police stepped on and began checking passports. They looked at mine briefly, asked where I’d been.

I replied nonchalantly, ‘Budapest.’

‘OK, before that?’

‘Italy.’ The patrolman took a step back.

Fuck. It was March 4, 2020 – days after Italy had been placed on lockdown due to the COVID pandemic. I’d barely made it out of the country, and yet the gravity of my current situation didn’t register with me until that moment.

The officer took my passport and left the train. Cue panic attack. I didn’t know whether I should get off the train or stay. I began packing up my belongings, prepared to be held at the border.

Train seats filled with belongings, clothing, and suitcases en route from Budapest to Sibiu.
The amount of shit I would have to pack up – not pictured is Andre in his backpack, sitting next to me

After about 45 minutes, the officer returned with at least five others. He asked where I’d been in Italy and, since I hadn’t been in the Northern red zone, I was permitted to enter Romania after filling out a number of forms declaring where I’d be staying and contact information. I also showed him my overnight ticket from Rome to Vienna, which proved that I left Italy on March 1st, prior to the national lockdown.

At the Romanian border – we made it!

The Rest of the Journey

The rest of the journey, while long, was very relaxed. The Hungarian plains gradually turned to the low-lying hills of Romania, atop some of which were ancient fortresses and castle ruins.

I made small talk with a few Romanians who were very surprised I was visiting their beloved country. I’ve found this to be common in Romania – citizens are very intrigued with your motives for visiting.

View of barren tree forest out the window of the train from Budapest to Sibiu
Early spring views

Although I was supposed to leave in June, I’ve been in Romania for 15 months now! There are certainly some things I wish I knew before moving to Romania, but adapting has been relatively easy.

Rainy weather outside the train window looking at Romanian village.

Sibiu proved to be a truly wonderful city, though I moved to Cluj-Napoca in June. Despite only being in Sibiu for three months of lockdown plus one month of freedom, it made a lasting impression. There is a myriad of things to do and delicious places to eat and experience traditional Romanian food.

Sibiu Railway Station from the exterior and sign with Romanian flag colors.
SIBIU, ROMANIA – 10 February, 2018: Sibiu railway station, located near Sibiu city center

If you want to held elsewhere in Transylvania from Budapest, this same train route will continue on to both Brașov and Bucharest. A different route from Budapest will take you to Cluj-Napoca.

In retrospect, I’d absolutely take this train ride again and would recommend it to anyone. It was safe, lax, and comfortable. I’d just remember to bring water (and snacks) next time!

Piata in Sibiu, Romania with pale yellow and pink buildings, statue and green trees.

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Ultimate Guide to Cluj-Napoca, Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/ultimate-guide-cluj-napoca/ https://www.mommytravels.net/ultimate-guide-cluj-napoca/#comments Wed, 02 Dec 2020 08:53:50 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=4556 Here it is!  The long-awaited ultimate guide to Cluj-Napoca, Romania, the city that has become my most recent favorite. Cluj-Napoca is...

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Ultimate Guide to Cluj Napoca

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Here it is!  The long-awaited ultimate guide to Cluj-Napoca, Romania, the city that has become my most recent favorite. Cluj-Napoca is an amazingly friendly city and one of the best destinations for digital nomads. It’s affordable, has widespread and reliable internet, and making friends here is easy.

Without further ado, please enjoy my unique perspective of Cluj as both a foreigner and a resident.  

Pinterest Graphic : Ultimate Guide to Cluj Napoca with Piata Muzeului in image.

A Bit About Cluj

Cluj-Napoca is located (almost) equidistant from the capital cities of Bucharest (Romania), Belgrade (Serbia), and Budapest (Hungary).  Situated in north-western Romania, it is the fourth-largest city in the country and the unofficial capital of Transilvania.  

Cluj, as it is affectionately called by its residents, is also a major international student center in Europe.  Because of this (and the city’s reputation as the ‘Silicon Valley of Transilvania’), Cluj-Napoca is one of the most important academic, cultural, industrial, and business centers in the country.

The city’s residents are among the friendliest I’ve met throughout my travels, and exceptionally welcoming to foreigners.  Most people under 40 will speak English and everyone is willing to help you if you’re in a bind.  It’s a super-safe city, ranking 13th safest city worldwide in 2020, with a crime index less than 20.Piata Mare in Sibiu, Romania, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

Getting to Cluj-Napoca

Plane

Cluj International Airport (CLJ) directly serves many European cities. Located just 9 km outside the city, it’s perfect for those who don’t like long rides after their flights. Wizz and Tarom are popular airlines with many direct routes within Europe. There are two bus lines that go directly to the city center from the airport (5 & 8).

Train

Train travel is another option, and there are several direct trains to Cluj from neighboring cities. Given its close proximity to the Hungarian border, flying to Budapest and then taking a train to Cluj is an excellent option.

Within Romania, there are direct trains from Bucharest, Brașov, and Oradea among others.

Night trains are popular in this area of the world as the train system isn’t as highly developed as in Western Europe – and in my experience, very safe.

Car

Although driving in Romania isn’t something I’d recommend for the faint-hearted, renting a car is an affordable option. Be aware that an international driving license is required to rent a car, and most rental agencies require a credit card for insurance and liability purposes.

Cluj-Napoca Bucket List

Union Square

Piaţă Unirii is the main square in Cluj’s Old Town. On the perimeter of the square, you’ll find restaurants and terraces, St. Michael’s Roman Catholic Church, and a few storefronts. The square features a large statue of Matthias Corvinus.

Museum Square

Museum Square in Cluj-Napoca, Romania with the overhead strung lights glowing on the people walking on the street below.

Photo: @mickv.rotaru

Piaţă Muzeului is where you can find the iconic strung lights hanging above a beautiful cobblestone street that is featured in many photographs of Cluj-Napoca. There are a number of good restaurants (my favorite is Casa Veche – I go here for dinner probably once a week!) as well as Matthias Corvinus House, which is where the famed Hungarian king was born.

Mihai Viteazul Square

Another popular square in the city center is Piaţă Mihai Viteazul, which is a central stop for many city buses. There’s a large statue with a beautiful fountain, cheerfully colored buildings, and beautiful architecture to admire.

Avram Iancu Square

Avram Iancu Square

Piaţă Avram Iancu is situated right in front of Cluj’s most spectacular building, the Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral. In the summer months, you can find an open-air market from which you can purchase authentic Romanian foods, honey, spices, and handcrafted goods.

Parcul Central Simion Bărnuțiu

 

Central Park is a large urban park spanning part of the southern shore of the Someşul Mic River. Nearer to the city centre you’ll find running paths and trees. Toward the outskirts of the city, there’s a large pond and an upscale restaurant with gorgeous views.

Parcul CetățuiaCetatuia-Views

Cetățuia is a personal favorite of mine considering the amount of time I spend there. It’s a large hill on the opposite side of the river from Old Town. The stairs are a bitch, but doable and worth it.

Here is where you’ll find the best views Cluj has to offer as well as the Cetățuia Food Truck Park. If you have mobility limitations, take an Uber or a Bolt, because public transport will still make you hike up the stairs.

SomeşSomes-River-Cluj

Cluj’s city river, Someşul (the Someş) is nice enough to enjoy a stroll along the river banks. There aren’t many attractions nearby, but if you’re heading from Parcul Central to Parcul Cetățuia, see if you can find Elisabeth Bridge!

Love Locks on Elisabeth Bridge

I stumbled across this gem en route from one park to the other my first day exploring Cluj, the city that would eventually become home. I spent a while admiring the care with which lovers meticulously placed their locks, a symbol of their eternal devotion to one another. (Szilard and I don’t have a lock on the bridge – yet!).

Grădina Botanicăcluj-botanical-garden

The Botanical Garden in Cluj is one of the city’s prized treasures, and something people talk about even in other counties throughout the country. The entire area spans over 14 hectares, featuring both indoor and outdoor gardens, and boasts over 10,000 species of plants from all over the world! The best time to visit is in the spring, when most varieties are in bloom.

Entrance for one adult is 11 lei (about $2.75 USD) with children, students, and seniors paying only 5 lei.

Matthias Corvinus Housematthias-corvinus-house cluj

One of the oldest buildings in Cluj-Napoca, Matthias Corvinus House is located in Piaţă Muzeului. Matthias Corvinus, one of the most renowned Kings of Hungary, was born here in the 15th century. The building has served as a jail, hospital, museum, and today is a visual arts institute.

Matthias Corvinus Statue

Matthias-Corvinus-Statue-Cluj

The Matthias Corvinus Monument is the focal point of Piaţă Unirii, the main square in Cluj-Napoca. It’s a popular photo stop for tourists and (obviously) depicts the famed Hungarian King, Matthias Corvinus.

Banffy CastleBanffy-Castle-Cluj

Photo: @marriage_withoutborders

Banffy Castle is outside the city limits of Cluj, located in the village of Bonţida. In the 1940’s the building suffered destruction by German troops but has since been restored.

In it’s history, the building has served as a hospital, a driving school, a co-op farm, and again a hospital for children. Since 2013 it’s served as the site of Cluj’s famed Electric Castle Festival.

Cluj ArenaCluj Arena

Photo: @mad_rolly

To the west of Parcul Central is the Cluj Arena, a multi-purpose arena that is now the home to one of the city’s many festivals – Untold. In addition to catching a football game from Universitatea Cluj, you can check out the Untold Festival or catch another concert – artists such as Andrea Bocelli have even played here!

Strada PotaissaStrada-Potaissa

Photo: @radupadurean

If you’re visiting Cluj during the warmer months, head to Potaissa Street for all of your floral indulgences. One of the most picturesque streets in the entire city, Strada Potaissa is the home to the Altfel Flower Market, which takes place Friday through Sundays from 10-23.

You can catch workshops and performances in addition to bouquets of flowers and potted plants for the home or herbs for the garden. The market has grown so significantly in recent years that car traffic has been restricted.

Cluj-Napoca Romanian National Opera

The Romanian National Opera in Cluj-Napoca is one of the city’s most iconic institutions. It’s situated across from Piaţă Avram Iancu and is a common stop for visitors in the city. Here you’ll find opera and ballet performances.

Considering that I am writing this in the midst of the 2020 Coronavirus pandemic, note that they also offer online viewings since the theatre is currently closed!

Hungarian Opera HouseHungarian-Opera-House

The Hungarian Opera House is lesser-known than the Romanian National Opera, but offers some spectacular performances. It’s situated adjacent to the eastern end of Parcul Central, making it a convenient stop after a dinner at the park or one of the nearby restaurants. Like the Romanian National Opera, it also offers presentations online during the global lockdown.

Pharmacy MuseumCluj Pharmacy Museum

The Pharmacy History Museum is located in the oldest pharmacy building in Cluj, nicknamed ‘La Sfântul Gheorghe’ or also known as the Hintz Pharmacy.

Dating back to the 16th century, the museum has very interesting sources of healing still located within its walls. These include Syrian asphalt, which was used to treat rheumatic disorders, as well as coral powder and lobster eyes, used for their naturally high calcium content.

Transilvanian Museum of Ethnography

Technically, the Transilvanian Museum of Ethnography in Cluj is two separate installations. The first, pictured above, is located at Reduta Palace downtown. Here you’ll find exhibits featuring items and clothing used in traditional rural Romanian life as well as an impressive historical photo collection.

Ethnographic Park Romulus Vuia

The second installation of the TME is located at Romulus Vuia Park, toward the outskirts of the city. Here you can visit an open-air museum that features traditional farms with buildings collected from different regions of Transilvania, authentic mills, and wooden churches. You can also view a number of workshops that demonstrate different aspects of rural life.

Jewish History Museum

Muzeon is a Jewish storytelling museum that is focused more on personal tales rather than historic exhibits. The stories are the result of research and careful examination of hundreds of letters, memoirs, documents, and personal testimonials.

Hoia ForestHoia Forest

Photo: @hoiabaciuforest

Hoia Forest has developed quite a reputation over the years. A known site for paranormal encounters and UFO sightings (among others), it’s consistently referred to as one of the most haunted forests in the world.

The first UFO sighting occurred in the late 1960s, putting Hoia-Baciu Forest on the map for lovers of the supernatural. Ever since, strange lights, energies, and other inexplicable phenomena have been reported in the area.

You can take a night (or day) tour of the forest, complete with EMF meters and Geiger counters!

Word to the wise – don’t wander off in any forest by yourself (haunted or not!). Hoia Forest is located near to the outdoor installation of the ethnography museum, so visiting both in one day is highly advisable. 

Tailor’s Bastion

CLUJ-NAPOCA, TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA - AUGUST 21, 2018:  Tailors bastion entrance on August 21, 2018 in  Cluj-Napoca.

The Cluj-Napoca Tailors’ Bastion is situated toward the southeastern tip of the old Cluj citadel.  Until 2007 the building was abandoned, but the city has since restored the tower and transformed it into a tourist site.  There are exhibits on each of its three floors and it now serves as a Centre for Urban Culture.

St. Michael’s Roman Catholic Church

St. Michael’s Church is the main church located in Piaţă Unirii.  It boasts the title of second largest church in Transilvania, though it is perpetually under renovation.  The scaffolding certainly takes away from its Gothic architectural beauty, but hopefully it will be complete soon!  

In the 1600s it was a popular site for elections of the Princes of Transilvania. 

In May of 1944, Áron Márton, bishop of the Roman Catholic Church in Transilvania, gave a famous speech strongly condemning the deportation of Jews.

Cluj SynagogueCluj Synagogue

Photo: @andreea_goia

The Neolog Synagogue is the only working synagogue in the city.  With its stunning Moorish-style architecture, it makes for an excellent photography subject. 

The building itself has a sordid history – it was built in the 1880s, suffered attacks in 1927 by the Iron Guard, was rebuilt by the Romanian government, then damaged by bombs of the railway station in 1944, and in 1951 once again restored.  Today it serves as a memorial to Jewish deportees during The Holocaust

Reformed Church

The Reformed Diocese of Transylvania is a moderately conservative Reformed, Calvinist church in Romania.  Cluj is one of the headquarters (together with Oradea) of the religious institution and is composed of two bishoprics:  the Reformed Diocese of Királyhágómellék and the Reformed Diocese of Transylvania.  Approximately 95% of its followers are of Hungarian ethnicity.

Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral

The Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral is my absolute favorite building in Cluj.  The union of Renaissance and Byzantine architecture is nothing short of breathtaking.  The fountain adjacent to the main entrance provides a lovely spot to sit and people-watch.  Stop here during the summer months to enjoy the market stalls set up in Piaţă Avram Iancu.

 

 

 

Try Varza a la Cluj

Cabbage is by far one of the most popular ingredients in traditional Romanian food. And Cluj-Napoca has its very own preparation! This dish is prepared with minced meat, onion, cabbage, and rice and finished with a sour cream mixture. The specific recipe varies greatly among families and restaurants alike.

During my first visit to Cluj I knew that this was the one dish I had to try. I’m not generally a fan of sour cream, but this was truly delicious.

Take a Walking Tour of the City

Cluj is a city with a diverse population, gorgeous architecture, and an abundance of history. Taking a city tour, free or paid, is a great way to understand both Cluj and its people on a deeper level. There are many popular tours in Cluj, or you can opt for a self-guided walking tour!

Electric Castle

Electric Castle is an annual music festival held at Bánffy Castle. EC features many genres of music including rock, indie, hip hop, electronic, techno, and drum and bass as well as art installations, similar to many US-based festivals.

You can catch internationally-acclaimed musicians such as Florence + the Machine, Skrillex, Deadmau5, alt-J, Franz Ferdinand, Fatboy Slim, Sigur Ros, Thievery Corporation, Die Antwoord among many, many others. There are ten stages, so there will always be something good to watch.

Electric Castle takes place each summer, usually in mid-late July. Headliners were just released for 2021 and include Deftones, Gorillaz, and Twenty-One Pilots!

UntoldUntold

Photo: @untoldfestival

Untold is another major festival taking place at the Cluj Arena. It’s more genre-specific than Electric Castle, focusing on electronic music. If you purchase a ticket to Untold, the bracelet will allow you discounts at other major attractions throughout Romania.

Featured artists have included Armin van Buuren, Avicii (RIP), Chainsmokers, Tiesto, David Guetta, Bonobo, Afrojack, Steve Aoki and others.

Untold usually takes place the first week of August each year.

TiffTIFF

Photo: @tiffromania

TIFF is an acronym for Transilvania International Film Festival and is yet another of Cluj’s famed festivals. Since its onset in 2002, Tiff has become the most celebrated film-focused event in all of Romania.

TIFF takes place annually and is spread out around multiple locations in the city, including outdoor and obscure venues. TIFF was the only festival held in Cluj in 2020 given the fact that social distancing was more feasible than would have been with EC or Untold.

The festival is usually held in late-July/early-August each year.

Where to Eat & Drink in Cluj-Napoca

I’ve only included places I’ve personally been to and enjoyed – this list is by no means exhaustive as Cluj has many great dining options to choose from!

Restaurants / Bars / Cafes

Casa-Boema-Smoker

Casa Boema, pictured above, is a good option for an upscale date night. It’s pretty pricey compared to the other restaurants on this list, but it’s popular with locals. I loved the outdoor smoker (pictured)!Sisters cluj

Sisters (above) serves coffee and alcoholic drinks. They don’t serve food, but you can order pizza from a neighboring restaurant if you get the munchies. This photo was taken on day 4 of the 2020 US Elections – hence the abundance of alcohol!

Colin's Gastropub

Photo: @hendeasilvia

Colin’s Gastropub is located near the east-end of Central Park. It has a great terrace, perfect for social distancing, and they have bomb steak tartare. They also have a really extensive craft beer list, if that’s your thing.

Food sign in Romanian outside Casa Veche

Casa Veche is one of my two favorite restaurants in Cluj. Their soups, meat platters, and even breakfasts are all amazing. They offer a wide array of traditional Romanian dishes and an extensive drink menu. Despite the central location in Piaţă Muzeului, the prices are quite reasonable. I go here probably once a week!

It’s a great spot to people-watch and there are often musicians busking nearby.

Restaurant Rod is the second of my favorite restaurants in Cluj. It’s a little outside of the city center, closer to the Botanical Gardens in the Zorilor neighborhood.

Rod is on the pricier side – dinner and drinks for two here usually cost us around 200 lei (about $40). That being said, we usually have cocktails or whiskey here in lieu of beer and wine.

Insider tip – if you’re American and looking for your Fireball fix, this is where to go! The food is always very good, and the décor is the nicest I’ve seen here in Cluj.

Food TrucksFood-Truck-Park cluj

Head to Cetățuia Food Park for a fun night out! There are usually about 7-8 different food trucks, and two full bars. In the colder months, you can find fire pits to get warm, and the bars serve hot wine. The most popular option by far is Vagabundos Food Truck – if you need a break from traditional Romanian food, you can find quesadillas, tacos, and Mexican-inspired weekly specials.

Vegan/vegetariana restaurant with tables and chairs

Ask any local where to eat and someone will undoubtedly mention Samsara Foodhouse, regardless of whether or not they are vegetarian. Samsara is a local institution serving up delicious vegan and vegetarian fare in a gorgeous setting.

There are also many salad and juice bars around Cluj offering veg options if you’re looking for something more casual.

Where to Stay in Cluj-Napoca

Cluj is a fairly large city with a number of different neighborhoods. Without a doubt, the Old Town is ideal if you’re planning to visit tourist attractions as most things can be reached on foot. Both the airport and the train station are easily connected to the Old Town via public transport.

Another popular neighborhood to stay is Zorilor. There is a large student population as well as a few shopping centers and the Botanical Gardens. I live in Zorilor and it has a much quieter and more residential feel than the center, if that’s what you’re looking for.

Neighborhoods I would stay/live in Cluj: Centru (Old Town), Zorilor, Grigorescu, Andrei Mureșanu.

Neighborhoods I personally wouldn’t want to stay in if I were visiting Cluj: Mărăști, Mănăștur, Iris. These neighborhoods may have their nice areas, but overall they are too urban and grey for my personal taste. The accommodation you’ll find in these areas will likely be cheaper, however.

VRBO

VRBO is a great option in Cluj. An entire, unshared apartment in the Old Town will run about $40 USD per night. Many VRBO hosts will give a generous discount for stays longer than one month – for these, apartments go from $500 USD and up. You may be able to find some things cheaper, but I had some non-negotiable amenities that I needed (kitchen, washer, pet-friendly).

Hostels

Hostels are abundant in Cluj and if you’re traveling on a budget, they’re your best option. You can spend as little as 60 lei ($15 USD) per night for a bed in a shared dorm, or about 100 lei ($25 USD) per night for a private room.

Hotels

Hotels are a good option if you are looking for full-service amenities and services such as airport transfers. There are hotels available in the city for any budget, it simply depends on the level of luxury you’re looking for.

Getting Around Cluj-Napoca

Public TransportCluj Trolley driving through city streets.

Photo: @vermllllon

Buses and trams are frequent and reliable in Cluj. Outside of the bus stops there are (usually) ticket machines with options for English. One bus ticket is good for two rides and costs 5 lei, or about $.60 per ride.

Be sure to validate your ticket once on board the bus – there ARE people who come to check, and you WILL be fined. Once validated, your ticket is good for one hour.

Tickets are not available for purchase on board the bus unless you have a contact-less card.

In total, Cluj has 3 tram lines, 6 trolley bus lines, and 21 urban bus routes.

Rideshare & Taxi

Uber and Bolt are two popular rideshare services available in the city.

Bolt is generally faster and more abundant, not to mention slightly cheaper. With Bolt, you have the option to pay in cash as well as card.

Ubers take a little longer to arrive and are slightly more expensive – you are also limited to payment with card only.

Worth mentioning if you are coming from the US – my bank does NOT like Bolt and always puts a fraud alert on my debit card when I try to pay. I rarely have cash on me, so I usually have to resort to Uber. You probably won’t have this problem if you use a big bank such as Bank of America.

I highly suggest taking a rideshare service if you do not speak Romanian – there have been many times when I have taken a taxi, even with my Romanian fiancé, and they gave us a runaround of the city because we were speaking English. With ride shares, the route is predetermined from the app and you won’t get screwed over.

Day Trips from Cluj-Napoca

Turda Salt MinesTurda-Salt-Mines

Photo: @flying_._fox

Turda Salt Mine isn’t just famous within Romania – Smithsonian Magazine actually included it in a 2018 compilation of ‘subterranean wonderlands’!  I don’t visit many underground tourist sites (ya know, anxiety and shit), but Salina Turda legit looks like a hidden NASA station.  

Salina Turda first opened in the 1600’s, was used as a bomb shelter during WWII, a theme park in the early 20th century, and now is somehow a strange compilation of all of its history.  It has a ferris wheel, paddle boats, a miniature golf course, spa services, and tours

Turda is a 40 minute bus ride from Cluj, a little less if traveling by car. You can visit Salina Turda for RON 40 per day for adults; seniors, children, and students RON 20 per day. Viator offers day trips to Salina Turda combined with stops in Transilvanian villages and Cheile Turzii for $80 USD.

Lake TarnițaLake Tarnița

Photo: @serdeanrares06

Lake Tarnița is situated just west of Cluj-Napoca and is a popular day trip from the city.  

Local legends proclaim that there are hidden tunnels under the mountains, exceeding lengths of 10 kilometers.  People say that the entire plant looks like a military intelligence center encased in rock and are capable of withstanding a nuclear attack!

Cluj has some of the best drinking water in the country, thanks to the water coming in from springs in the Apuseni Mountains.  On that note – tap water is safe to drink in all of Romania, and perfectly fine in Cluj. We refill large bottles and store them in the fridge in lieu of purchasing bottled water. 

The area is popular for fans of water sports and fishing.  Be forewarned, that most of the lakeshores are on private property, so access to the lake is limited.

Cheile TurziiCheile Turzii

Cheile Turzii is a natural reserve just west of Turda and about 40 km from Cluj-Napoca (about a 45 minute drive).

It’s a popular spot for rock climbing and hiking with local residents.

Sibiu

Sibiu will always be my first love in Romania, and luckily, if you’re visiting Cluj, it makes for a great day trip. If you’re renting a car, the drive takes about two and a half hours.

I’d recommend renting a car or an organized tour as the train route is indirect and can take upwards of four hours. A bus ride will take just under four hours. Viator offers a 10-hour day trip to Sibiu and some surrounding villages for $105 USD.

There are a ton of things to do in Sibiu, including open air museums, sprawling green parks, shopping, and more.

Hungry? You won’t have any difficulties finding where to eat in Sibiu – the food here is phenomenal.

Sibiu is slightly less expensive than Cluj in terms of both accommodation and dining.

Alba IuliaAlba Iulia

Photo: @visitalbaiulia

En route to Sibiu, be sure to stop at Alba Iulia. Located approximately mid-way between the two cities, Alba Iulia is an up-and-coming destination in Romania. In fact, both Alba and Sibiu are on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage list.

The Citadel is without-a-doubt the most popular attraction in town, but there are a number of other things to do as well. Hike the caves and mountains, tour (and taste) at Jidvei Winery, visit the fortified church at Calnic (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), or simply explore the labyrinth that is the city center.

Lavanda Lola FestLavanda Lola Fest

Photo: @vespacluj

The annual lavender festival takes place in Bonțida, just 30 km outside of Cluj-Napoca.  It’s held each year in June and boasts over 50 species of lavender!    

Visitors can purchase fresh lavender and learn how to extract natural lavender flavor from plants.  Picnics on the orchard are allowed and there are plenty of lavender products to test and purchase!

Entrance is RON 10/person (about $2.50 USD). 

Ardeal Delta

The Ardeal (Transilvanian) Delta is the third most famous delta in Romania, after the Danube Delta and the Văcărești Delta.

Nestled in the heart of Transilvania, the Ardeal Delta is a remarkable nature reserve that showcases one of the most biodiverse areas of the country.  The reserve has everything from wetlands, lakes, ponds, forests, marshes, meadows, and more.  

Fishing, hiking, camping, and bird-watching are all allowed in designated areas.  For birders, there are observation towers as well!

MărișelMărișel

Photo: @raduc_

Mărișel village is a village in Cluj County, located in the Gilau Mountains, which comprise part of the Apuseni range.  The village is located about 50 km from Cluj, making for a doable day trip.  Mărișel boasts an altitude of 1250 m, being the largest inhabited mountain plateau in Apuseni.  

Aside from capturing stunning photographs during any season, you can also check out museums, the Astronomical Observatory, and the Hydropower Plant

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stuck abroad during the 2020 lockdown https://www.mommytravels.net/stuck-abroad-during-the-2020-lockdown/ https://www.mommytravels.net/stuck-abroad-during-the-2020-lockdown/#respond Tue, 16 Jun 2020 08:25:05 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=4094 I never expected to become stranded in Transilvania – in Romania at all, for that matter.  When most Westerners think of...

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I never expected to become stranded in Transilvania – in Romania at all, for that matter.  When most Westerners think of Transilvania, their minds imagine a place dark, haunted, and sheathed in isolated wilderness.  Perhaps also conjuring up images of Dracula and evil, troll-looking peasants.  However, it was actually the brightness and beauty of Sibiu that initially drew me to the city.  Despite this, it still surprises me.  The vivid coral-colored tiled roofs, the color of turnips in spring.  Even the buildings, their facades painted in varying shades of muted Easter eggs, have a luminous quality in the afternoon sun.  

sibiu town

The first week I arrived, now over two months ago, it rained every day.  I was sure I would never see the sun in Transilvania.  In those first days, the fog partially obscured the snow-capped Carpathian backdrop that outlines the southern outskirts of the city.  The granite peaks permanently flecked with snow wouldn’t make their full selves known to me until I’d already been in Sibiu for weeks – during the lockdown.

Sibiu, Romania with Carpathian mountains in the background

It is now day 40 of lockdown.  I desperately miss the joys of dinner alone while writing in my notebook and savoring the experience, something I’ve associated with travel since taking my first solo trip.  Long gone are the days of strolling through the squares, feeling the buzz of energy from lively cafes and countless souvenir stalls, filled with brightly colored, fresh-cut flowers and hand-painted Romanian pottery.  At least, for now.  Now, the squares are mostly empty, except for the pigeons.  There is a man in a wheelchair who is sitting outside the Brukenthal almost every time Andre and I pass.  Our eyes have still never met.

Empty Piata Mica in Sibiu, Romania

Sibiu is vibrant, beautiful, charismatic.  It’s true.  Still, there is an undeniably gothic aura to Transilvania that goes far beyond the bounds of Dracula. Romania is not a particularly affluent nation; seemingly marginal, backward, and fairly unknown relative to the rest of Europe; and with an exceptionally brutal past, particularly with regard to the Holocaust and Ceaușescu’s reign of terror.  Still, despite progressing slowly and haphazardly, the fact is that Romania has been emerging out of that position for 30 years now.  Romania, itself, is a nation in isolation.

Romanian flag wind-blown around its pole in Piata Aurarilor in Sibiu, Romania

I’ve watched the season evolve and spring weather draw up purple crocuses, white and yellow daffodils, and cherry blossom trees.  Despite the dragging of the days, the weeks in lockdown have been going by very quickly.  Settling into a routine of takeout and red Moldavian wine.  Yoga practices on the creaky wooden floors of my apartment kitchen.  Aimless walks with Andre each night as evening falls and the street lamps come on.  We find ways to embrace the solitude of long days and long walks in an empty city.

Daffodils covered in snow in Romania during the lockdown

All of this time spent in isolation has forced me to acknowledge the grim reality that the future of travel will be changed.  Maybe not forever, but for the foreseeable future. 

Cetatii Park in Sibiu, Romania - empty during the lockdown

Travel, like all things, has been evolving since the first trip was taken.  Authentic, absorbed travel is a thing of the past.  Total and complete immersion is virtually impossible, thanks in part to postmodern communication techniques and our readiness to pick up our phones and begin scrolling through emails and social media apps at the first moment of opportunity.  

An empty street in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

For me, the true thrill of travel is mental.  It’s about total immersion in a place, but not because nobody from anywhere else can contact me.  I am alone.  And so, my life is narrowed to what is immediately before my eyes, making the experience of it that much more lucid and poignant.  Postmodern communications and technology have destroyed all but the most extreme forms of travel.  Still… today, during this time of social and geographical isolation, I think that’s a good thing.  

Graffiti wall in Sibiu, Romania regarding the virus

There’s significant contention in the travel community today about what constitutes ‘real’ travel.  Your trip has to be a certain length, under no circumstance are you to call yourself a ‘tourist,’ there is a set of unwritten dos and don’ts that must be followed.  So-called ‘real’ travel has now become an act of resistance against the distractions of the electronic age. Against all the worries that weigh us down, thanks to that age.  Just as there is a need to finish a good book, there is a need to further explore different aspects of an alluring location.  But because that is my experience with travel doesn’t mean that has to be everyone else’s experience. 

An empty passageway in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

My experience traveling is not only spatial, but also historical, literary, culinary, and intellectual.  I can’t fully experience a place without understanding the histories and ideologies that elicit the tired, judging eyes of locals who pass me in the street.  Travel and good books, because they demand consistent present-moment awareness, stand in the face of the nonexistent attention spans that contort our current time on earth.

Building tops in Sibiu, Romania

The truth is, there is no such thing as ‘real’ travel anymore.  There are so many different niches, and each of us has a way that best suits us and our experience of a new (or familiar) place.  Personally, I find travel to be much more than a break from monotony.  Travel is a consolidated, more expressive interpretation of existence; the ups and downs proceed rapidly upon one another; all things can fluctuate over the course of a day, or a couple of hours.  A city you’d visited days before might seem like an isolated memory now. Though you could relive each individual moment of your experience there, at the end of your journey, the whole experience becomes richly solidified in your consciousness – even as years or decades of everyday reality back home dissolve into extinction.  

Empty stair passage in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

I travel in order to defeat oblivion.  To know that the world I know is just one of many possible worlds.  This has been my first time experimenting with what would be categorized as ‘slow’ travel – spending at least a month in each city.  It is in this way that I’ve been able to surpass the exciting part of novelty. That in itself, is exciting to me. 

Empty Piata Mare in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

Because travel is linear – it is about the present moment and maintaining that present-moment awareness.  It’s about one place or singular perception at a time. Each imprinted profoundly into your mind, so as to permanently alter your perception of ‘normal.’

Council Tower in Sibiu, Romania

Practicing present-moment awareness while traveling is, in general, easier for me than doing it when in stasis, back home.  This doesn’t seem to be the case in times of Coronavirus.  While I am still convinced of its efficacy, it’s harder to bask in that stillness for the same, uninterrupted periods of time.  Unless out for a walk with Andre or to get groceries, each moment, while still different, just seems the same.  

Empty tables and statue head in a park in Sibiu, Romania

The problem is that present-moment awareness is interrupted by the awareness that there is more to see and unexplored ways of existence.  Still, it is a sacred practice.  The present moment allows for the expanse of attention required to truly savor not only the history and landscape of Sibiu, but also the knowledge that travel, while changed, will still resume.

Lutheran Church Cathedral in Sibiu, Romania

New incites forgetfulness of old, the passage of time goes faster, while still staying established in the now.

Top of the Orthodox Cathedral in Sibiu, Romania

I approached my breaking point somewhere around two weeks into the lockdown.  These invisible restraints had seemed to tighten and tighten until finally, I felt like my circulation was cut off completely.  In those days of deep depression, my afternoons were more often filled with wine than with yoga.  But eventually, once the familiar mind had been dismantled, came the acceptance that perhaps these were obstacles that concealed opportunities. 

Two statue busts in a park in Sibiu, Romania

As is the case with many of the trials life throws at us, we can learn and adapt to leave the confines of comfort.  We all manage quite differently, and for some of us, now truly isn’t the time to learn a new language or take up a new hobby.  Some of us aren’t keen on video chat every day.  But the formation of healthy habits, little by little, can be profound. 

delivery man on a bicycle in PIata Mare, Sibiu, Romania

We grow in conditions that force us to think differently than before.  Each new perspective, unfamiliar stimulus, novel experience can be used to our advantage to rewire our neural pathways to form healthier patterns.  These subtle changes will then affect our perception of our place within this new environment – the world post-COVID.  

Woman walking under the Bridge of Lies in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

I’ve been brushing up on my Romanian history since the long train ride from Hungary.  Admittedly, I didn’t know much about it prior to that.  And still, I imagine it’d take years upon years of research to fully understand Romania’s dynamic and complicated past.  But this crash course has given me much insight into Romanians and their way of life.  

Man sitting alone on a park bench in empty Piata Mare - Sibiu, Romania

Romanians are tough, brave, resilient.  Due to political instability, the unknowns of what the future holds has made them incredibly resourceful and realistic.  Maybe that’s why things during the lockdown seem so calm and controlled in Romania. At least, relative to what I’ve seen happening in other parts of the world.  Still, I am an outsider.  And as such, I am not fully privy to the reality of the current situation here. 

Empty street in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

All the same, I am channeling my inner Romanian to make it through my days in Transilvania.  Romanians have known territorial dismemberment, occupation, monarchy, military dictatorship, fascism, and communism all in one century.  Finally, also revolution and democracy. 

Empty street with colorful buildings in Sibiu, Romania

I’m American and have had a relatively privileged life thus far.  I don’t know these challenges.  So I am learning to do things like the locals and adopting a similar mentality. Whether or not that’s a good thing is still unknown.  There is a saying here, “Mămăliga nu explodează,” which conveys the message:  Romanians are like polenta.  Polenta doesn’t explode.  It is amorphous, without guts, always adapting to whatever form is required.  

Dolls looking out a window in Sibiu, Romania

So, I tune in to my inner polenta, my inner Romanian.

Front façade of a building with Romanian Flag in Sibiu

I’m trying to reach a deeper state of identification with the conditions that shape experiences in this microcosm of the world. I change as needed, into whatever form is most appropriate for the environment.  I am no longer relegated to survival in just one narrow state, what I would describe as ‘regular life.’  Regular life may not always be waiting, and I sense that things now will be forever changed.

Empty street in Sibiu, Romania during the lockdown

In two weeks, the State of Emergency in Romania will be lifted.  We will have the freedom to move about our respective towns without having to fill out a declaration. Intercity travel will still be prohibited without a valid reason. 

Empty Piata Mare in Sibiu, Romania

Once the State of Emergency has officially ended, my visa countdown will begin once again.  Having Andre with me somewhat complicates matters.  The convoluted flight paths it would require to get home are not conducive to a dog flying.  If I did make it home, I’m sure I wouldn’t be allowed out of the country again for an indeterminable period of time, given the severity of the virus in the U.S.. 

Goldsmith's Square passage in Sibiu, Romania

So, for now, we weigh our options and contemplate the risks of overstaying our visa.  

Cibin River in Sibiu, Romania

But in the meantime, the days are spent enjoying the comforts of yoga and wine, teaching, and musing over our current situation.  I contemplate what lessons this place can teach me, both about its particular geographic location in the underbelly of Eastern Europe, and the period of history through which I am fated to live.  And how to somehow reconcile that these two are connected. 

Romania’s distinctive brand of ‘Latin’ within Eastern Europe (among other things) has led to its psychological isolation and distinct separation from the rest of Europe.  So here we are.  Isolated in isolation.  But, as the wise Dr. Meredith Grey once said, “If we’re all alone, then we’re all together in that, too.”

Empty square in Sibiu during the lockdown

Forbes Magazine names Sibiu one of the top 20 safest destinations for post-COVID travel! Coming to Sibiu? Check out things to do and places to eat.

UPDATE:  The lockdown has now been lifted for 30 days.  Gradually, things are reopening in phases and the city is beginning to come back to life.  We are beginning to fully see what limitations lie in store for us with regard to international travel.  For example, despite my not having been in the States since January, my US passport prevents me from entering other countries in Europe.  Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. 

Park in springtime -  Sibiu, Romania

In less than a week, I will move from Sibiu to a larger Transilvanian city, Cluj-Napoca.  Is another lockdown in store for Romania?  It’s difficult to say at this point. Higher cases of the virus are being reported daily since the country has gradually begun reopening.  

Strada Nicolae Balcescu in Sibiu, Romania

I hope you all are staying safe and sane during these uncertain times.

Update 2: I’ve been living in Cluj now for nine months! This is what you should know before moving to Romania.

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26 Things to Know Before moving to Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/26-things-to-know-before-moving-to-romania/ https://www.mommytravels.net/26-things-to-know-before-moving-to-romania/#comments Fri, 12 Jun 2020 19:51:56 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=4037 Romania is a seriously beautiful, highly underrated country in the Balkans. Its natural beauty, friendly people, affordability, and high-quality internet speeds...

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Romania is a seriously beautiful, highly underrated country in the Balkans. Its natural beauty, friendly people, affordability, and high-quality internet speeds make it an excellent option for moving to Europe – particularly for Digital Nomads or remote workers. Here’s an all-encompassing list of everything you need to know before moving to Romania, as well as a bit about the realities of living in Romania.

Disclaimer: This has been my experience and of course, there may be exceptions to things.

balea-lake

Internet Speed

When I first decided I would go to Romania (for what I thought would only be two months), I had to inquire to my potential Airbnb hosts as to the WiFi speeds due to my online work. This was a major thing I had to know before moving to Romania.

Let me tell you – Romanians are proud of their internet speeds. It is some of the best in Europe (the fixed broadband speeds are ranked 5th in the world!). So if you need reliable and fast internet connections, Romanian cities won’t disappoint.


Currency

The Romanian currency is leu (lei plural) which literally translates to lion. You will also see prices listed in RON in exchanges, but it’s the same thing. Their bills are very colorful and are actually plastic – no need to fear if you accidentally leave money in your pocket and then do laundry! 

RON are roughly just over four EUR & USD – as exchange rates are ever-evolving, here is a currency converter if you’d like to see the current rates.


Affordability

Is it expensive to live in Romania? No! In fact, living in Romania is extremely affordable if you are paid in Euro or USD (or something equivalent).

Some cities (Bucharest, Cluj-Napoca, Sibiu) are more expensive by Romanian standards. As in every country, prices will slightly vary from city to city.

Overall, everything from rent to groceries and all in between are significantly less expensive than in the West by roughly 25%. I get paid in USD, so when calculating the conversion rate I generally just divide by four to get a general idea.


Driving

Look at most travel blogs that feature Romania and you will undoubtedly read something about how crazy their drivers are. Well – yes and no. While living in Romania, I’ve only been truly scared for my life a handful of times while a passenger in someone else’s car (haha!).

The fact of the matter is that Romania doesn’t have many roads! There’s usually only one way to get from point A to point B, and that includes large trucks making deliveries. So, when you’re stuck behind a truck and it seems like it’s taking days to reach the next city, yeah, it can be a little frustrating! Many impatient drivers will exhibit aggressive passing practices. You get used to it.

transfagarasan highway romania

Understanding the infrastructure issues is definitely helpful to know before moving to Romania – particularly if you want to understand the local driving habits. That being said, Romania had the highest driving fatality rate in the EU in 2019. Be careful!

Disclaimer – I have never dealt with Bucharest traffic, so I can’t attest to what may or may not happen on the roads there! I’ve only heard horror stories!


Schengen Status

This is a little complicated – Romania is a member of the European Union, but it is not included in the Schengen zone. Romania, Bulgaria, and Croatia are EU members that are currently trying to become part of the Schengen area, so this may change in the near future.

What this means is that you’ll have to show your passport when going to other EU countries – there is no free movement (as there is, for example, when traveling from Italy to Austria).


Language

Romanian is a Latin-based Romance language, so you’ll see many similarities if you’re familiar with Italian, Portuguese, French, or Spanish. They do have some odd sounds and different letters/accents that make pronunciation a battle.

In cities, you’ll find most everyone under 45 speaks some English. Still, do your best to learn some basic phrases – they will be valuable to know before moving to Romania. Plus, it’s just… you know…. polite. I do alright with Romanian when I’m alone, however, living in Romania would be much easier if I had a more solid grasp on the language.


Romani vs. Romanian

When you hear people talking about gypsies from Romania, they are not talking about Romanians – they are talking about Români people. It’s a completely different ethnicity, so be careful, or you might piss someone off. You can learn a little more about the differences here.


Voronet, Romania - October 07, 2014: Unknown Nun At Orthodox Mon

Receiving Packages

This is BY FAR my biggest pet peeve with living in Romania. If you order something online, you’ll get a window of dates during which the package should arrive. Don’t make any big plans on those days – because on one of the mornings, you will get a text message saying your package will be delivered. Between 9 and 17 usually. You can’t do anything during that time, because you need to be home to accept the package. It’s super frustrating (especially in the time of COVID-19 when I cannot go shopping for clothes and have to order things!). Some days when I’m expecting a package, I can’t even take a shower until after the package comes if I’m the only one home!

If you are getting a package from outside the EU, you will receive a slip in the mailbox and they will hold your package at the post office where they will do a customs check. Some customs offices (such as the one in Cluj-Napoca) open the package and briefly look inside, others don’t look (as in Sibiu). Of course, it also depends on the customs officer.

I will note that the times that my packages were inspected in Cluj, I had prescription medications in the box that the officer didn’t check (but clearly saw, as they were visible when the box was opened) – this was a prescription that, though prescribed to me, is not legal in Romania, so I’m not sure what would have happened if he had checked. I brought my prescription notes with me just in case.


Vegan/Vegetarian Food

Finding plant-based food options in the bigger Romanian cities usually isn’t a problem (especially in the weeks leading up to Orthodox Easter). De post is the term used to describe vegan (fasting) food in case you need to know! It’s helpful to know that living in Romania is still possible even for vegan and vegetarian eaters.

I was impressed with the number of vegan options in both Sibiu and Cluj – even after Easter.


goldsmith-stairs în Sibiu România

How to Drink Pălincă

Pălincă (or Țuică) is a very strong local spirit made from plums, apples, or some other kind of fruit.

One of the first times I went to a Romanian friend’s house for dinner, there were shot glasses of pălincă served. As an American, if it comes in a shot glass, we take it as a shot. Much to my embarrassment, after clinking glasses to cheers, I took a shot and my friends all sipped theirs. Fail. Sip your pălincă!

Also worth noting – you know how some people have strong reactions to tequila, such as getting angry or super-fired up? Yeah….. this happens to me with tuica. Be careful!


Train Travel

The trains here are super slow! If you have the option of taking a bus, it will likely be much quicker (and only very slightly more expensive). Romania is also a pretty big country, so if you’re traveling far, it might be wise to take a night train. Although if you’re living in Romania and have legal residency, it may be wise to purchase a cheap car, depending on how much traveling within the country you plan on.


Wood Mafia

When thinking about corruption in Romania, you’re likely imagining sweaty politicians crowded in café booths in Bucharest smoking cigars. At least, that was the visual I always got. Don’t get me wrong – political corruption here is absolutely a thing (isn’t that the case everywhere?).

However, there is another big issue going on in the northern Romanian forests of Suceava County on the border of Ukraine. This issue takes the form of large-scale wood trafficking. Yeah. You heard correctly. To go more in-depth is beyond the scope of this blog, so I’ll just leave this link here for you if you want to learn more about the wood mafia in Romania.



3 Core Skills of Mindfulness

Troubled History

If you are planning to move to (or visit) Romania, give yourself a crash course in Romanian history. You don’t need to become an expert on the subject, but knowing some basics will help you better integrate into life here.

The effects of communism are still fresh and some people, particularly the older generations, are still adapting to their new way of life. The Romanian Revolution that overthrew Communist leader Ceaușescu only happened in December of 1989 – just 30 years ago.

Learning a little about Romanian history has 100% prevented me from making some very ignorant and presumptuous comments.


Outlets

In Romania, the power plugs and sockets are of type F. The standard voltage is 230 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz.

Adapters are helpful, but things such as phone chargers are better just purchased once you’re in the country (they’re a lot cheaper than in the West, as well). Just remember that most things will be cheaper here than in Western Europe or the States – so unless you’re really committed to a particular brand, better to wait to get what you need after you’ve been living in Romania for a bit.


Taxi & Uber

Taxis here piss me off a bit. If you’re arriving at a train station and your destination isn’t too far, no one will give you a ride because it is ‘too short’ – regardless of how much luggage you have. This happened the very first night I arrived in Sibiu, in a thunderstorm with a lot of luggage and a dog.

I had another poor experience with taxis in Cluj. Unlike rideshare services such as Uber or Bolt, the route is not predetermined. So, when my Romanian/Hungarian fiancé and I were speaking English in a taxi one day, the driver thought he could take advantage of us and take a convoluted route to get where we were going. I had no idea what was going on when Szilard began yelling at the driver in Romanian until I began to pick out some key words. They will screw you over for just a few lei.

Use a rideshare service if you’re in a major city. Uber and Bolt are available in Cluj-Napoca, București, Brașov, Timișoara, and Iași. They are almost always cheaper (Bolt is cheaper than Uber), and the drivers have to stick to a set route, so you won’t be taken advantage of if you don’t speak Romanian.


Food

Traditional Romanian food is pretty damn good. It’s fresh, bio, and (usually) prepared with a lot of love. It can be very rich, however, with a heavy emphasis on pork. There are also SO MANY delicious traditional soups to try. And be sure to try the unofficial national dish, sarmale.

You will undoubtedly be invited to a Romanian house for dinner at some point. Bring wine or flowers. And don’t be shy about eating once you’re there. If you have the good fortune to spend Christmas or Easter in a Romanian household, be prepared to eat a week’s worth of calories in an afternoon.


Abundance of Natural BeautyPelican colony at the Danube Delta, Romania

Romania has some pretty incredible mountain ranges and forests to explore. Not to mention, part of its border is on the Black Sea coast, so a beach vacation is not out of the picture. If you’re a nature buff, you’ll have a field day exploring all of the natural wonders of Romania. Make sure you get to the Danube Delta! Living in Romania is the perfect opportunity to explore the many natural wonders Romania has to offer, particularly since you’re not rushing around with a set itinerary.


UNESCO sites

Speaking of the Danube Delta, Romania has eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These include:

  • Churches of Moldavia
  • Dacian Fortresses of Orăștie Mountains
  • Historic Center of Sighișoara
  • Danube Delta
  • Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians
  • Monestary of Horezu
  • Villages with Fortified Churches in Transilvania
  • Wooden Churches of Maramureș

Living in Romania will provide ample time to tick each of these off your Romanian bucket list!


Village Life

Some villages in Romania seem to be frozen in time. You will see traditional homes, people dressed in traditional Romanian clothes, and yes, even horse-drawn carriages casually making their way down the streets.


Safety

Romania is a super-safe country. Exercise normal precautions when going out at night and alone and you’ll be just fine. Petty theft isn’t so prevalent, nor is gun violence (this is particularly refreshing for me, an American).

Do a little research on the particular city you plan to live in – a grasp on local safety and crime will be good to know before moving to Romania. As in any country, larger cities tend to have higher crime rates. Always trust your judgment and remove yourself from situations that feel unsafe. As a solo female, I feel comfortable going out alone at night.


Helpful People

Not only is Romania an extremely safe country, its people are unbelievably helpful and friendly. When I first stepped off the train in Sibiu (after a 12-hour ride!) a woman noticed me struggling to get my heavy-ass suitcase up the stairs at the station. She came over and grabbed one side of the handle and helped me lug it to the top (I also had a dog in my backpack, so I was – and am – eternally grateful. This was just the first example.

One friend in Sibiu was always offering to help me make calls, translate, and navigate my way around the city.


Don’t go to Bucharest Firstumbrellas-bucharest

OK, so this may not be the best advice since, if you are flying, you’re probably arriving at OTP, the international airport in Bucharest. I took a train from Budapest to Sibiu, so I missed out on this one.

Everyone I’ve spoken to, travelers and locals alike, have told me: If you want to like Romania, don’t go to Bucharest first. **Disclaimer – after publishing this, I’ve had a few people express to me how much love they hold for Bucharest. As I’ve never been, I can’t really say one way or the other, but the majority of people (again, both locals and tourists) warn me to stay away from Bucharest.

If you’re looking for a city to live in Romania, try some of the other more developed cities: Cluj-Napoca, Sibiu, Brașov, Timișoara, and Iași.


You Can Still Enjoy the Seaside!

Moonrise over empty beach in Vama Veche, Romania with empty cabanas
Moonrise in Vama Veche

If you’re familiar with the geographic location of Romania, you already know it’s one of the countries on the Black Sea. However, if Geography isn’t your forte, you’ll be pleased to learn that Romania boasts many seaside resort towns.

If you’re up for a party, head to Vama Veche, one of the most underrated beach destinations in Europe!


Tampons Aren’t a Thing

OK, ladies. So, of course, they are a thing. But if you are used to the type with applicators, they can be difficult to find. My female friends I’ve spoken to here don’t really use tampons because they’re uncomfortable – but of course, some women do. So. If you are accustomed to using a certain type, be prepared to go on a hunt (depending on where you are living) if it matters to you.


Be Prepared to Discuss Your Income

Virtually every Romanian I’ve met here has asked how much money I earn. I’m not entirely sure if this is because I’m American or if it’s just the norm regardless of nationality. Just, know that you will likely be asked this question when first meeting someone.


Last Name First

When making friends with people on social media or dating apps (what can I say, Tinder was a good distraction during the 2020 lockdown – and introduced me to my partner!), many people will write their last name first. I’ve mistakenly called people the wrong name a countless number of times. Finally ,I figured it out.


Renting an Apartment

Renting an apartment here is relatively straightforward. My current apartment actually started as an VRBO, but due to the global lockdown, my hosts were gracious enough to offer it to me at a reduced price off of the VRBO platform.

I am currently apartment-hunting in Cluj. All you need to rent as a foreigner is your passport – you don’t need any visa or residence permit paperwork.

From what I’ve heard, most apartments will already have utilities turned on, and moving in as simple as just paying the bills while they are still in the owner’s name. I will update this section as my apartment in Cluj is finalized!

Update: As promised, here’s the update on renting a long-term apartment in Romania. In some apartments, the internet and utilities remained in the landlord’s name. You have to take photos of the gas and electric usage to send to the landlord, and he or she will send you photos of the final bills, which are added to your monthly rent. This is a super beneficial aspect of living in Romania, as changing utilities into your own name can be a pain in the ass. I did encounter one apartment that required the tenant to make their own Digi account (Digi is the main internet and cable provider in Romania).



26 Things to know before Moving to Romania
 

There you have it. Everything I’ve learned (thus far) about what to expect as a foreigner living in Romania. Of course, my experiences are limited to the places I’ve lived in, so there will always be exceptions. Have you lived in Romania as a foreigner? Drop a note in the comments what you would’ve liked to know before moving to Romania! xx

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22 Best Places to Eat in Sibiu, Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/where-to-eat-in-sibiu-romania/ https://www.mommytravels.net/where-to-eat-in-sibiu-romania/#respond Mon, 27 Apr 2020 07:30:51 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=3159 Visiting local restaurants alone with my notebook has become one of my favorite memories of travel, regardless of the city I’m...

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Visiting local restaurants alone with my notebook has become one of my favorite memories of travel, regardless of the city I’m in. It’s become part of my travel routine, and it allows me to play the role of a quiet observer amid the noise. During my time here so far, I’ve compiled this list of where to eat in Sibiu. Poftă Bună!

Where to Eat in Sibiu

1. Max

Cheesy pizza diavolo from Max in Sibiu, a delicious traditional Italian restaurant in the city.

I arrived in Sibiu around 10 pm on a Wednesday night and needed to find some food after a 12-hour train ride plus interrogation at the border due to my time in Italy. Lucky for me, this place was across the street from my Airbnb and open till midnight. I had a pizza and 2 glasses of wine for a grand total of 50 lei (60 with tip) which equates to about $13 USD.

They have an extensive menu, but at that hour I didn’t want much more than comfort food. The food was phenomenal and the chef is from Italy, so if you’re looking for authentic Italian eats, this is where you’ll be satisfied.


2. Kulinariumkulinarium-pork

A restaurant located in Piața Mică, this place has the perfect ambiance for a solid date night. But the staff was nothing if not sweet and attentive.

I forgot what I ordered, and there is no menu available online – some pork roulade-type entree with mushrooms, and beets with horseradish. Both were yummy – I can’t wait to go back when the restaurants here re-open and sit at one of their outside dining options in the square.


3. AM PM Coffee & More

Located across the street from Max (and my first apartment here in Sibiu), AM / PM Coffee & More makes a deliciously creamy flat white. I had a prosciutto and tomato bagel as well, for a grand total of 25 lei (just over $5 USD).


4. Restaurantul Hermania

where to eat in sibiu - pork ribs at restaurantul hermania

This is probably the best restaurant in Sibiu – but, relatively, it’s expensive. The food is delicious and, like Kulinarium, it’s a great option for date night. They offer a modern Saxon menu with super-fresh ingredients. Restaurantul Hermania has its own off-site farm as well – they raise trout and lamb, and make their own bread, jam, cheese, sausage, and pâté.  10/10 would recommend.


5. Burger Houseburger-sibiu

Go for the ‘Smoke n’ Fire Burger’ with a glass of wine for a whopping 37 lei ($8 USD). I found this place in the mall while I was doing some much-needed clothes shopping. Relative to mall food in the U.S., it was pretty good. A solid option if you find yourself at the Sibiu Promenada and in need of food.


6. Benjamin’s Steakhouse & Bar

where to eat in sibiu - interior of benjamin's in sibiu

I expected a little more from Benjamin’s, however, it’s a steakhouse and I did not order steak. I’d visited for lunch, and a full-on steak seemed like it’d be too heavy. I opted for Spicy Beef with Noodles (44 lei) and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc (14 lei). Total – 58 lei, or roughly $13 USD.


7. Pardon Cafe

where to eat in sibiu - pardon cafe outer façade

So, I have yet to actually eat here – but I’ve heard amazing things. They are still offering delivery while in-restaurant dining in the city is shut down, and the chef makes the most adorable videos each day on Facebook presenting the day’s menu. At some point, I will get around to eating here (or at least, eating from here), and I’ll update accordingly. I walk by this place almost every day on my walks with Andre.

Update** Unfortunately I moved to a different city before I had the opportunity to go for myself! Still, with all of its glowing recommendations, I still feel confident leaving it on this post. Give it a shot and report back to me!


8. Crama Sibianăwhere to eat in sibiu - pork stew and polenta with pickles

One of my top picks on this list of where to eat in Sibiu, for sure. At Crama Sibiana, I opted for a Transilvanian Pork Stew (tochitura), some house-made pickles, and 2 glasses of a dry Romanian red wine (not sure what they actually gave me). Total – 59 lei ($13-ish USD). I can’t wait until restaurants re-open after the pandemic to get back here!


9. Restaurantul Casa Weidner

This place was slightly odd. A friend had recommended Weinkeller, and I got the two mixed up and found myself here instead (located in Piața Mare). The service was god-awful – not just slow, but slightly rude as well. I was here for a quick lunch and only got a Transilvanian chicken soup with some house-made pickles (can you tell, I have a thing for Romanian pickles?). The soup was actually pretty good, though the pickles weren’t too crispy. Beer is always good. The total was about 30 lei, or, roughly $6.75 USD.


10. Sushi Master

When deciding where to eat in Sibiu, sushi never crossed my mind. Never in a million years did I expect to eat sushi in Romania (on multiple occasions, nonetheless), but I’d heard good things, so figured I’d give it a shot. Holy shit! It was as fresh as you could ask for, tasty, and SO INEXPENSIVE! $20 USD will get you a platter of about 48 pieces, a combination of basic maki and more creative, elaborate options. There are more and less expensive options as well. This place is so good, in fact, that when a friend came to stay with me from a Romanian city with no sushi options, we ordered it twice in the span of only a few days. I may or may not be ordering it for dinner today. Just sayin’.


11. Casa Frieda

where to eat in sibiu - pork stew and polenta with pickles

At Casa Frieda, I was wholeheartedly expecting garbage tourist food, as it’s located on the tourist-oriented Strada Nicolae Bălcescu. While the menu was certainly geared toward tourists (it is also a hotel), the food was quite delicious. I had a lamb stew over polenta, some (you guessed it!) house-made pickles, and wine. One of my more expensive meals, totaling roughly 75 lei (about $17 USD).



12. Cafe Einstein

where to eat in sibiu - outer facade cafe einstein

This is a great option for pizza or basic sandwiches. It’s located in Piața Mică, right next to Kulinarium. Actually, in between the two restaurants is a narrow passageway that cuts through to Piața Huet. Grab a seat at one of the outdoor tables for great people-watching while enjoying pizza and a beer.


13. La Turn Sibiu

My favorite Romanian dish thus far is – sarmale! When my very first Romanian friend recommended this traditional dish to me, it took me quite some time to get around to trying it. But – WOW. Sarmale is ground pork with vegetables and seasoning wrapped in brined cabbage leaves. It’s served with polenta, some smoked meat, and sour cream. I’ve actually tried to make (some variation of) my own twice since eating here. If you want to try sarmale, figuring out where to eat in Sibiu will be an easy choice. Most restaurants with traditional Romanian fare have it. This restaurant is located right beneath the Council Tower, at the edge of Piața Mare.


14. Restaurant Grand Plaza

Recommended to me by a local friend, this place is off the traditional tourist track. Actually, it’s a stone’s throw away from my apartment. Very inexpensive, very traditional food awaits at Restaurant Grand Plaza.

Come for legit, soul-satisfying traditional Romanian fare.  They have a lot of traditional dishes here, such as pork knuckle, sarmale, and Transilvanian stews.  I’d recommend coming here for a bite to eat over the more tourist-oriented places on Strada Nicolae Bălcescu, for sure. Expect to spend about $11 USD per person (with drinks).


15. Syndicat Gourmetsyndicat-gourmet

Come to Sibiu and ask a local where to eat, and someone will undoubtedly recommend Syndicat Gourmet.  A unique fusion of Indian and Romanian, the food here is super fresh and flavorful.  I had soup, an appetizer, and 2 glasses of wine for 55 lei ($12 USD).  Mashed Beans, Fried Onions, Fresh Pickles, and Chapati-Bread (18 lei – $4 USD) and Cream of Horseradish Soup with Smoked Pork (16 lei – $3.60 USD).  My only complaint here was that the pickles that came with the mashed beans weren’t crunchy.  That being said, I’d still go back in a heartbeat (and fully intend to once things re-open).


flowrs-on-table-sibiu

Located on Strada Nicolae Bălcescu, this tourist-oriented restaurant is priced as such. My biggest takeaway from this thing was the shitty service. It. Was. Awful. Slow, rude, with a complete IDGAF attitude from all staff members. This steak salad I got was actually really good – the steak looks overcooked in the photo, but it was perfectly tender medium rare. Still, I won’t be returning given the quality of the service.


17. La CuptorLa cuptor in Sibiu, Romania

This is another place that’s high on my list once the lockdown restrictions lift. Sadly, despite its close proximity to my place, I wasn’t able to make it here before everything closed. The interior looks gorgeous, and I’ve heard about the caliber of the food from multiple people who live in town. I’ll report back once I actually get there!


18. The Rabbit Hole

While the food here isn’t anything to write home about, this was the last restaurant I went to before the 2020 lockdown. With an optimally-placed terrace in Piața Mare, it’s a great place for people-watching and relaxing with a bite to eat. They have a limited menu for lunch (pizzas only).

19. Ribs & Beer

Pretty standard fare – they have a good selection of craft beer, and also deliver! If you’re more than one person, the platters were pretty impressive. They also offer an impressive selection of sausages. Platters with ribs and a couple of sides are around $11 USD. I personally am partial to the BBQ places back home, but this is a good choice if you’re craving ribs and, obviously, beer.


20. Covrigi

No post on food in Romania would be complete without at least mentioning covrigi, a sort-of street pretzel, I guess? Usually topped with sesame seeds, salt, sunflower seeds, etc., you’ll be hard-pressed to walk down a crowded street in Sibiu without seeing at least a couple of people walking around with these. The walk-up windows selling them are abundant on Strada Nicolae Bălcescu.

21. Zestrea Restaurant Romanesc

Tucked away in Piața Mare is Zestrea, a traditional Romanian restaurant. Less tourist- than some of its neighbors, I order delivery from here all the time. Their sarmale is the bomb, as is their meatball soup. Yum! When I order delivery, I usually pay around 50 lei ($11-ish USD) and it lasts me for two meals. Not bad at all!

22. St. Andrew’s Scottish Pub

Liquid dinner? Go to St. Andrew’s Scottish Pub for a beer or, as I opted for, a Laphroiag. I don’t think this place has food, but if you’re a solo traveler, it’s a great place to make friends. This place really shouldn’t be included on a list of ‘where to eat in Sibiu,’ but I couldn’t not mention it!

As our lockdown restrictions in Sibiu begin to relax, and as restaurants begin to open once again, I’ll do my best to get everywhere I haven’t yet visited and update this post accordingly. If you’ve been to this charming Transylvanian city and have other recommendations for where to eat in Sibiu, let me know in the comments! Peace.

 

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Where to eat in Sibiu, Romania

 

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26 Things to do in Sibiu, Romania https://www.mommytravels.net/things-to-do-sibiu-romania/ https://www.mommytravels.net/things-to-do-sibiu-romania/#comments Sun, 19 Apr 2020 11:03:19 +0000 http://www.themigrantyogi.com/?p=3355 Sibiu will always hold a special spot in my heart, long after I leave. A charming city in Transilvania, once under...

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Sibiu will always hold a special spot in my heart, long after I leave. A charming city in Transilvania, once under the rule of Saxon Germans, Sibiu is an alluring place to spend a relaxing holiday. In 2007, it was voted Cultural Capital of Europe, and in 2008, Forbes’ voted this one of the most Idyllic Places to Live in Europe. There has been substantial development since then, but the city’s old town still boasts quaint pastel-hued buildings, winding stair passages, and hidden tunnels that are as whimsical as they are mysterious. Enjoy this compilation of some of the most noteworthy things to do in Sibiu.

Thinking about moving here? I’ve compiled this list of things you should know before moving to Romania.

Exploring the City

Piața Mare

Also known as ‘The Great Square,’ Piața Mare serves as the focal point of Old Town. Although the original marketplace in Sibiu was in nearby Piața Huet, the Great Square was home to markets, fairs, and executions since its inception in the 13th century. Lined with cotton-candy-colored buildings in a myriad of architectural styles, come to Piața Mare to sit on a bench and people-watch for a while or enjoy a chimney cake.

Piața Mică

Piata Mica in Spring - things to do in Sibiu
Western side of Piața Mică

Also known as ‘The Small Square,’ Piața Mică is divided into two distinct parts, Strada Ocnei and the Bridge of Lies. A former craftsman’s market, the square is home to a number of restaurants and the entryway to the Council Tower. It’s filled with charming narrow passages and stairways that connect it to Piața Mare, Piața Huet, and Piața Aurarilor. Perusing the souvenir stalls that line the square is one of the best things to do in Sibiu on sunny weekends.

Turnul Sfatului – Council Tower

Things to do in Sibiu - Climb the council tower for this view of the red roofs and the Evangelical Church
Sibiu’s most iconic vantage point from Council Tower

Generally considered to be Sibiu’s most iconic structure, the Turnul Sfatului was originally built in the 12th century. It has served various functions since then, including wheat storage and observation point. Today, tourists flock to the tower for its impressive vistas overlooking the red roofs of the city.

Be sure to look out for the slightly eerie ‘eyes’ that are found on the Sibiu rooftops. Local legend says that the ‘eyes’ were to frighten the townspeople into proper behavior by making them feel as though they were being watched. In truth, they are simply ventilation structures found in most attics.

Piața Huet

Things to do in Sibiu - visit Piata Huet
Piața Huet, in the direction of Stairs Tower

Huet Square was the original market square in Sibiu, dating back to the end of the 12th century. You can find the Stairs Tower in Huet Square, and stair passages offering impressive medieval views of the city. Also, be sure to check out Restaurant Weinkeller!

Strada Nicolae Bălcescu

Things to do in Sibiu - Strada Nicolae Balcescu
Strada Nicolae Bălcescu during the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic

Dating from the first quarter of the 14th century, the street connected the Cisnadian Gate (demolished in the late 1800s) with Piața Mare. The street is usually lined with souvenir stalls. Here you can find trinkets and fresh flowers, as well as a number of tourist-oriented restaurants. This photo was taken during the global pandemic, so the streets are understandably empty. You can also find the iconic, creamy white Hotel Împăratul Romanilor hotel on Strada Nicolae Bălcescu.

Orașul de jos – Lower Town

Things to do in Sibiu - lower town
Sibiu’s Lower Town

In Sibiu’s Lower Town, you’ll find winding cobblestone streets lined with colorful artisan and merchant houses. While Sibiu’s wealthier population generally resided in the Upper Town, the Lower Town exudes a charm that money simply cannot buy.

Podul Minciunilor – Bridge of Lies

Things to do in Sibiu - the Bridge of Lies
Bridge of Lies, walking in the direction of the Lower Town

Many different narratives surround Romania’s first cast-iron bridge, erected in 1859. Dare to tell a lie from Podul Minciunilor, and one local legend has it that the bridge will start to ‘talk,’ making strange noises as though collapse is imminent. The two other legends associated with the bridge have to do with couples’ lying to each other. Young men would declare their love and grandiose promises to women on the bridge, with no intention of staying true to their word. And the young women, vying for a husband, would declare their virginity. If, on their wedding night, it turned out they were lying, they’d be thrown from the bridge.

Should you use the sidewalk underneath the bridge, consider yourself warned – look out for pigeon poop. You will slip and fall on your ass. Definitely did NOT happen to me…. twice.

Pasajul Scărilor – Stairs Passage

Things to do in Sibiu - Stairs Passage
Andre exploring Stairs’ Passage

Also known as the ‘Wall with Needles,’ Stairs’ Passage was built in the 14th century. Its primary purpose was to connect the upper and lower towns of Sibiu. Be prepared for a steep climb if you want to go the entire length of the passage. It runs from the old City Hall (today the Museum of History) to the intersection of Odobescu and Tower Gate.

Parcul Sub Arini

Things to do in Sibiu - Parcul Sub Arini
Cherry Blossoms in April

Founded in 1856, Parcul Sub Arini (Park Under the Aldertrees) is one of the oldest in Transilvania. Spread over 22 hectares, the park boasts 68 tree species (30 of which are exotic, 38 local) and 95 species of birds! A tranquil escape from the city, come here to jog, play with the family, or simply bask in the green surroundings. If you’re more inclined toward green surroundings and being in nature, this is certainly one of the best things to do in Sibiu, regardless of the season.

Pasajul Piața Aurarilor – Goldsmith’s Square Passage

A stunning passage of steps linking Piața Mică and Piața Aurarilor, connecting the upper town and the lower town. This evocative and inspiring passageway oozes character. It takes little to no effort to imagine what life was like here when the city was governed by Saxon Germans.

Zidul Cetății – City Walls

Things to do in Sibiu - follow the city walls
Looking down the length of the old city walls

An integral part of Sibiu’s history, the old city walls separate the Old Town from the modernized areas of Sibiu. The city walls were once used as medieval defense fortifications and protected the city from potential invaders.

Sibiu Walk of Fame

Sibiu walk of fame

The city launched the Sibiu Walk of Fame in 2013. It is situated in a pedestrian zone in between the first and second guard walls. Each year, a new name is added to it in the areas of theatre, dance, and art.

Museums & Events

The State Philharmonics Sibiu

Things to do in Sibiu - see philharmonic at Sala Thalia
Sala Thalia

Filarmonica de Stat, at the Sala Thalia, is the local Philharmonic orchestra. The philharmonic has been awarded various distinctions over the years and is located in a cultural edifice of national importance. Next time you are visiting, check out the schedule of performances.

Astra Film Festival

Things to do in Sibiu - check out the annual Astra Film Festival at the Astra Theatre
Astra Theatre

The Astra Film Festival in Sibiu is a major event in the film industry in Europe. Astra specializes in documentaries and is well worth a visit if you’re looking for things to do in Sibiu. Rainy days are fairly frequent in the Carpathian basin – it’s good to have a backup plan. The festival normally takes place during late summer/early fall.

Christmas Markets

Sibiu Christmas Market

Come to Sibiu during the holiday season and explore the renowned Christmas markets that fill the many squares. If I am still here in December, I’ll be sure to upload some photos!

Museum of Natural History

The Muzeul de Istorie Naturală has a dinosaur garden. Need I say more? It also boasts an impressive gem and mineral collection for fellow rock lovers.

Brukenthal National Museum

Things to do in Sibiu - see Romanian art at the Museum National Brukenthal
Muzeul Național Brukenthal

If you’re looking to admire some Romanian art while visiting Sibiu, look no further than the Brukenthal. The museum was built in the late 18th century and is housed in the former palace of Samuel von Brukenthal, the Habsburg governor of Transilvania.

Museum of Pharmacy

Fun fact: Sibiu was home to the first pharmacy in Romania. So, it only makes sense that it should be home to a museum dedicated to the history of pharmacy as well. You can find this museum on the Eastern side of Piața Mică.

Museum of Steam Locomotives

This railway museum opened in 1994. It is home to a large collection of steam locomotives and engines. Not my personal cup of tea, but if steam engines are your thing, check it out!

Astra National Museum Complex

No article listing ‘things to do in Sibiu’ would be complete without the inclusion of the Astra complex. One of the best parts of this place is that it’s an open-air museum! It paints a vivid picture of what life was like in traditional Romanian villages. The museum is just 4km outside of the city in the Dumbrava Forest. This allows for not only a great museum experience but also an escape from the hustle and bustle of small-city living.

Museum of Saxon Ethnography

Things to do in Sibiu - see the Museum of Ethnography in Piata Mica
Museum of Saxon Ethnography

The Emil Sigerus Museum of Saxon Ethnography is located on the Eastern side of Piața Mică. It is a rather small museum, home to antique furniture, original textiles, traditional clothing and costumes, among other things. Expect to pay extra if you want to take photos!

Casa Altemberger – Sibiu History Museum

Casa Altemberger is located at what was once, for 400 years, the old Town Hall. The Sibiu History Museum takes you through time, from the Paleolithic age up to the modern day. Here you’ll find interesting artifacts, silverware, pottery, and other things exclusive to this area of southern Transilvania.

Churches & Cathedrals

Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral

Things to do in Sibiu - see the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral with its colorful frescoes and Byzantine architecture
Interior of the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral

The second largest Orthodox cathedral in Romania, this church is a stunning example of Orthodox Byzantine architecture. It is the first Orthodox cathedral I’ve ever visited, and, let me tell you, its splendor completely blew me away. The vivid frescoes and ominous tones of Romanians hymns will evoke feelings never before experienced, even for the least religious of the bunch.

Lutheran Church

Things to do in Sibiu - see the Lutheran Evangelical church of Saint Mary in Huet Square
Front view of the Evangelical Church in Huet Square

The Lutheran Evangelical Church of St. Mary is one of the most famous buildings in Sibiu. Its imposing spire can be seen from most points in the city. The church dominates Huet Square and offers impressive city vistas for those willing to ascend the steep tower steps.

Saint Ursula Roman Catholic Church

Relatively lesser known in comparison to other churches in Sibiu, this building catches my eye each time I pass by. My apartment is located on an intersecting street, so I pass this building every day. The city built the church in the late 13th century as a home for Dominican monks. The monks eventually abandoned the church when the Lutheran religion dominated the area. During the darkest days of Romanian communism, the church was nationalized. However, following the revolution in the early 1990s, it has held Greek Catholic services.

Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church

Things to do in Sibiu - see the Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church in Piata Mare
Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church is in the Northwest corner of Piața Mare – it is the building to the right

When Austrian troops arrived in Sibiu in the late 17th century, they brought the Jesuit monks for the journey. The need for a church followed, and one was consecrated in Piața Mare in the 18th century. The church is renowned for its Viennese Baroque style, nestled amid its Gothic and Art Deco neighbors in the Grand Square.

Food

Sibiu has no shortage of amazing food options to choose from – here is an ever-evolving list of where to eat in Sibiu.

Map

And there you have it! Some of the best things to do in Sibiu, Romania. Did I miss something? Leave me a note in the comments! Have you been to Sibiu? What’s your take?

 

The post 26 Things to do in Sibiu, Romania appeared first on Mommy Travels.

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