A Wine Lover’s Guide to Puglia
Dip your toe in the heel of the boot for an extraordinary wine trip
The Apulian Peninsula (Puglia forms the “heel of the boot” on a map of Italy) offers a vast array of delights for the wine-loving traveler. I recently visited the Salento and Valle d’Itria regions which lie in the southeastern most part of Italy, just south of Bari and east of Matera, in Basilicata.
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VALLE d’ITRIA
This stunningly beautiful region is best explored by car in order to travel from town to town, traversing olive groves and vineyards and catching sight, in Valle d’Itria, of hundreds of trulli, the unforgettable limestone structures with conical roofs that have existed since the 14th century. Spend a couple of days traversing the countryside between the white towns–Ostuni, Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Carovigno–and enjoy comparing their breathtaking architectural beauty, local charm and stunning views.
Naturally, you will sample local specialties like taralli, the crunchy bread rings served with wine, burrata, and ricotta handmade from the region’s milk, and endless varieties of seafood. Stop at a traditional braceria, where the butcher’s counter is your menu, and order some bombette (grilled meat parcels) and fegatine (grilled liver skewers) paired with a bottle of susumaniello, a rustic local wine made from an ancient grape native to Salento.
NATURAL WINE DETOUR
A friend told us about the unexpected but excellent natural wine bar in the historic center of the tiny town of Carovigno. When we sat down at our outdoor table at Sommarco, the server said, “We don’t do spritz.” We told him we’d like to drink wine. “We only have natural wine,” he said. We knew we had come to the right place. We asked the server to choose and enjoyed a funky Apulian sparkler made from negroamaro grapes at Masseria La Cattiva, just 80 kilometers away.
COASTAL DRIVE
A highlight in Puglia is the constant proximity to the ocean. The peninsula is about 60 kilometers wide, so technically you are never too far from the Adriatic or the Ionian Sea. Take a drive down the coast from Polignano a Mare to Monopoli, stopping to eat fresh fish and drink a bit of local white wine (Verdeca is a favorite grape variety and the house wines rarely disappoint) and admire the craggy cliffs, hidden beaches, and turquoise water.
TARANTO
The Greeks arrived in Salento by crossing the sea in the 8th century BCE, and their historic and cultural influence is prevalent. They founded Tarentum (now Taranto) on the west coast of the peninsula, and the doric columns standing in Piazza Castello remind you of the complex history of the region.
VARVAGLIONE ESTATE
Just South of Taranto you’ll find Varvaglione, a renowned fourth-generation family winery. Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione and their three charming children Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca all play crucial, hands-on roles in the company. Their vast collection of Apulian wines include the elegant Papale Primitivo di Manduria DOP and the approachable but equally outstanding 12 e Mezzo line. The winery offers visitors intimate tours of the masseria (estate), picnics in the vineyard complete with striking panoramic views, cellar tastings, and more, all by reservation only.
A great time to visit is the last weekend of May for the annual Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars), when hundreds of Italian wineries, including many in Puglia that are rarely open to the public, open their doors and provide tastings, entertainment, and tours.
MASSERIA
A stay in a masseria offers a unique and very Apulian experience. A masseria is an estate farm dating back to the feudal times in the 16th and 1th centuries, and many have been restored and renovated to create rustically luxurious hotels and restaurants.
For a special wine lover’s stay near Taranto, book a room at Masseria Amastuola, a stunning walled stone estate atop a hill with views of Taranto and the sea. The 18 vaulted stone rooms are airy and well-appointed, situated around an enclosed courtyard and infinity pool and the original stone olive oil press is on display in the breakfast room.. The modern fine dining restaurant serves the organic wines cultivated and aged at the estate–a great opportunity to learn about the typical Apulian grapes like Negroamaro, Aglianico, Fiano, Malvasia, and Primitivo. They offer wine experiences on-site including historical tours of the grounds and tastings, by reservation.
SALICE SALENTINO
Head southeast towards Lecce for a stop at Cantele Winery, in the heart of the Salice Salentino DOC and wine-making region. Make an appointment to taste in their wine shop–and don’t miss their elegant barrique Chardonnays.
NEXT STOP LECCE
Lecce’s honeyed golden glow comes from the typical stone quarried all over the region and carved into the ornate baroque architecture that makes up the historic center. Stop at a bakery for a pasticiotto (a rich warm short pastry stuffed with custard) and an almondy iced Caffe Leccese.
ON TO THE SOUTH
I chose to stay at Don Totu in the tiny town of San Cassiano just 30 minutes south of Lecce, to be closer to the southern seaside towns. Housed in an art-filled restored palazzo, the rooms are comfortable and the extensive outdoor spaces and pool area are a delight, with seating areas dotted throughout the blocklong space that extends behind the church of Santa Maria della Assunta.
The amenities make you feel like you are staying with a wealthy relative, including an airy gym with yoga classes every morning, a Turkish hammam, E-bikes to ride to the seaside, and a complimentary apertivo each night. The gracious staff takes care of restaurant reservations, itinerary ideas, and any other request, breakfast and beverages are served on custom-made Italian ceramics and glassware. For wine lovers, a well-stocked wine fridge/honor bar lives in the basement for any guest to access.
BACK TO THE COAST
From there, wind your way east to Otranto, or to Castro for outstanding Adriatic views and a little beach time, then down to Tricase Porto for whole fish, clams, and sea urchin straight from the sea, with a glass of fiano, of course. For me, that’s where my trip ended, but I wish I had stayed longer, wandered further, and lingered over a few more Apulian wines.
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